help on filling a gap in canopy seam

tweety1

Member since
August 2003
From: Alice Springs Australia

Posted by tweety1 on Friday, October 1, 2004 7:17 AM

Good point mg.

Faster cure time, less fume time.

Still, I'd dip them in Pledge first, better safe than aftermarket Wink [;)]

--Sean-- If you are driving at the speed of light and you turn on the headlights, what happens???

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Friday, October 1, 2004 6:56 AM

I have also been told by madmike that if you use CA zip kicker on it , its an accelerator of CA and stops any problems with fogging..I have tryed it recently and its amazing..

mike Tongue [:P]

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tho9900

Member since
July 2004
From: SETX. USA

Posted by tho9900 on Friday, October 1, 2004 6:19 AM

QUOTE: Originally posted by tweety1

Hmmmmmmmmm, with some practice, you could make your own see through fuselage for some obscure kits...................

Might do some trial and error stuff.

my thoughts exactly Tweety... and Squadron has it, it IS called Thermaform and it's failrly cheap like 9 dollars or less...

---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!

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tweety1

Member since
August 2003
From: Alice Springs Australia

Posted by tweety1 on Friday, October 1, 2004 5:56 AM

Hmmmmmmmmm, with some practice, you could make your own see through fuselage for some obscure kits...................

Might do some trial and error stuff.

--Sean-- If you are driving at the speed of light and you turn on the headlights, what happens???

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tho9900

Member since
July 2004
From: SETX. USA

Posted by tho9900 on Wednesday, September 29, 2004 6:03 AM

QUOTE: Originally posted by MusicCity

QUOTE: no... dont have the ability.... it glues together but that gap is NASTY.

Actually you do have the ability. Squadron has some stuff (the name slips my mind right now; Thermaform possibly) that is sheets of clear styrene. Mount your old canopy on a pencil using a wad of Silly Putty, Tape, etc. Heat the plastic over a candle and when it starts to sag yank it down over your old canopy. It will form over it and make a duplicate. I haven't used it myself but I've seen posts from a few who have and it sounds like it will work decently. Just fix your gap so it's smooth, regardless of how it looks, and this stuff might make a copy of it without the gap.

hmm I'll have to check that out just for the fun of it! sounds neat!!!

---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!

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MusicCity

Member since
January 2004
From: USA

Posted by MusicCity on Tuesday, September 28, 2004 8:43 PM

QUOTE: no... dont have the ability.... it glues together but that gap is NASTY.

Actually you do have the ability. Squadron has some stuff (the name slips my mind right now; Thermaform possibly) that is sheets of clear styrene. Mount your old canopy on a pencil using a wad of Silly Putty, Tape, etc. Heat the plastic over a candle and when it starts to sag yank it down over your old canopy. It will form over it and make a duplicate. I haven't used it myself but I've seen posts from a few who have and it sounds like it will work decently. Just fix your gap so it's smooth, regardless of how it looks, and this stuff might make a copy of it without the gap.

Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page

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tho9900

Member since
July 2004
From: SETX. USA

Posted by tho9900 on Tuesday, September 28, 2004 8:27 PM

QUOTE: Originally posted by reggiethedorf

vacforming ?

watch your mouth young man.,.. there are children present!!!! haha no... dont have the ability.... it glues together but that gap is NASTY....

---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, September 28, 2004 7:28 PM

vacforming ?

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tho9900

Member since
July 2004
From: SETX. USA

Posted by tho9900 on Tuesday, September 28, 2004 9:59 AM

QUOTE: Originally posted by tweety1

Um, I use CA glue to fix my canopies in the open position all the time, and never have they crazed or fogged.

Simply because I dip them in Pledge-One-Go (Australian Future)

After the usual dip and allow to dry thing, the canopy is coated, and the clear plastic is no longer exposed to CA fumes.

It works for me, and would be a stronger bond than Testors clear parts or white glue.
Just my

cool! I have an old junker model I haven't put a canopy on, I am going to try that...

---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!

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tweety1

Member since
August 2003
From: Alice Springs Australia

Posted by tweety1 on Tuesday, September 28, 2004 9:40 AM

Um, I use CA glue to fix my canopies in the open position all the time, and never have they crazed or fogged.

Simply because I dip them in Pledge-One-Go (Australian Future)

After the usual dip and allow to dry thing, the canopy is coated, and the clear plastic is no longer exposed to CA fumes.

It works for me, and would be a stronger bond than Testors clear parts or white glue.
Just my My 2 cents [2c]

--Sean-- If you are driving at the speed of light and you turn on the headlights, what happens???

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tho9900

Member since
July 2004
From: SETX. USA

Posted by tho9900 on Monday, September 27, 2004 9:10 PM

QUOTE: Originally posted by MusicCity

CA will absolutely fog the plastic. Ambroid or Tenax will PROBABLY work fine without any fogging. I've used them on clear and didn't have any problems, but try it on some scrap from the same model first! I have heard that dipping clear parts in Future before gluing will eliminate fogging problems, but I haven't tried it myself. You could also use white wood glue. It dries clear however the joint is not very strong.

ACK!!!! you may have hit on it!!! last time I glued them with the testors clear parts glue.. then tried to putty them!!! maybe using the clear parts cement or ambroids to cement them, THEN the wood glue, and as it is drying but not totally, using a damp Qtip to smooth it to the level of the rest of the canopy would work! I know I have used the elmers white/wood glue for tiny cracks at the wing roots when putty was overkill for a job that small... let it dry for about a minute and then start smoothing with a damp Qtip...l let it dry totally overnight and light coats of paint over it as not to melt it... (the glue)

thanks!!! I will wait a day to hear any other takes on this but that just might be it! Appreciate the help!

---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!

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tho9900

Member since
July 2004
From: SETX. USA

Posted by tho9900 on Monday, September 27, 2004 9:04 PM

yeah thats what I use.. the testors clear parts glue.. but after it dries there is a nasty crack where the seam is.. It looks like the edges of the canopy halves are bevelled... I tried squadron green but it sanded completely off by time I got it flush with the canopy... I don't think it stuck well with the clear parts... I am thinking of taking powder from a sprue I 'grate' with an Xacto... put some in the crack and ambroids it... I dunno, hoping to hear someone who has done something like this... I can't think of the reason to do this in 2 halves... the Academy C/H-46 is bigger and has a whole canopy...

unless it was cheaper this way...

thanks y'all!!!

---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!

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darson

Member since
February 2003
From: Melbourne, Australia

Posted by darson on Monday, September 27, 2004 8:31 PM

Testors make a great product (Model Master - 8876C) which is their Clear Parts Cement & Window Maker. I have used this a lot and it would be ideal for the problem you've got.

Cheers
Darren

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MusicCity

Member since
January 2004
From: USA

Posted by MusicCity on Monday, September 27, 2004 8:15 PM

CA will absolutely fog the plastic. Ambroid or Tenax will PROBABLY work fine without any fogging. I've used them on clear and didn't have any problems, but try it on some scrap from the same model first! I have heard that dipping clear parts in Future before gluing will eliminate fogging problems, but I haven't tried it myself. You could also use white wood glue. It dries clear however the joint is not very strong.

Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page

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tho9900

Member since
July 2004
From: SETX. USA

help on filling a gap in canopy seam

Posted by tho9900 on Monday, September 27, 2004 7:41 PM

For some reason Trumpeter decided this canopy was too big to model whole... so they split it down the middle... VERTICALLY... so the last time I tried this model even with putty there was no filling the seam...

I was wondering if filling it with CA since it is going to be painted over anyway, or will Ambroids (which I didn't use that time) not mess up my plastic that much that I can use it sparingly on the center seam? (the part to be painted extends 1/4 inch on either side of the seam)

It's wierd but the edges of the seam seem to have a slight bevel to them.. like it was done on purpose... (the bevel) I keep hoping someone comes out with an aftermarket canopy soon...

Anyway any help on filling that seam on a clear piece would be appreciated! here is the seam not glued yet...

---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!

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