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Runs in Gloss Coat???

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, May 6, 2003 3:56 PM
John, you don't need to thin Future. It should spray fairly well through the brush. I generally turn up the pressure a bit (20-25psi) when I'm spraying Future. It seems to spray on a bit finer and nicer this way. Do some experiments and find what works best for you.

If you do want to thin it, you can use some alcohol or water. Both should work OK, but I've never done it.

The only trick I've found to using Future with your airbrush is to clean it relatively quickly afterwards. If the future sets up in the airbrush, you will be swearing very loudly when you try to clean it out. Your needle will stick and everything will get gummed up fairly good (that voice of experience sure gets around...). Just flush it out with some alcohol or windex after your done and clean it with a pipe cleaner and/or some q-tips. All will be fine...

I've found that the most difficult skill to master in modelling is.... patience. Rushing just about anything in modelling can ruin your day. There are ways to speed certain things along, but generally time is a very important ingredient in a well crafted model.

M.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, May 6, 2003 3:50 AM
Ok guys im learnign the learning curve is big and im goign to do it right no matter how long i have to fight with my wife about letting it sit. Going to buy her ANOTHER model adn give her somethign to keep her busy im still workign on step 5 of a Tamiya M2 Bradley after 2 weeks ahahahaa. Also do i need to THIN the FUTURE im goign to spray thru my aribrush im a REAL NOOBIE at airbrush work guys. And if i need to thin what do i need to use after spending my hard earned cash on this brush and compressor the last thign i want to do is kill it day 1.

thanx in advance
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Washington State
Posted by leemitcheltree on Tuesday, May 6, 2003 2:50 AM
John has about the right idea -
Spray cans aren't really all that bad - most of them just need to be warmed up first. Here goes............
Wait at LEAST a week (longer is better) for the gloss cote to dry, and carefully sand down the run with wet 2000 grit or finer - takes a long time, but the idea here is that you don't want to add any nasty scratches through the clear into the paint. Once that's done, warm the can and again mist a dust coat of clear onto the model, then another, and work up to a quick wet coat. A polish or wax afterwards often helps, too. Use a really good one, like Meguiars.
Why not practice on a tin can or something first? Having to buy another can of clear is easier (and less stressful) than buggering up the model (do you hear the voice of experience laughing at me?). Get the technique down in your head - dust coats, then quick and even wet coat - but lack of patience is the main culprit for most all modelling blunders (there's that voice again.....).
Future floor wax is a fantastic product - apparently it works well on floors, too.
It's important to airbrush a dust coat of this stuff - it'll make your car look matt - let it dry for a while, then another dust coat, dry, then gradually it'll let you hammer it with a wet coat to bring up the gloss.
Cheers.
Lee Tree

Cheers, LeeTree
Remember, Safety Fast!!!

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, May 5, 2003 7:39 PM
wait, sand WITH 2000 or up sandpaper for the entire model or just the run. then polish with a compound/carwax
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, May 5, 2003 4:00 PM
John, here's my thoughts:
1. As for the runs that you currently have, I think the best thing to do is to let everything thoroughly dry as it is. You'll have to be patient. Then lightly sand out the 'runs' the best you can, being careful not to cut through to the paint below. Shoot another couple of gloss coats and it should blend everything together.
2. I don't mind spray cans, but there's a few tricks to remember. The first is to always heat the can in warm water. Let it sit for several minutes until the can is warm. This will increase the pressure and allow the paint/clear to flow out much smoother. Next is to spray 'light' coats and slowly build them up rather than try to do a 'heavy' coat right off the bat. This is *very* hard to do if you're an impatient person (trust me, I know...), but believe me, it is good advice. You don't need full coverage in the first coat. Just spray it on lightly so that it makes a sort of 'pebbly' surface and let it dry. Then do the same thing again until you've got 2 or three coats on like this. At the very end, you can put a heavier 'wet' coat on, but be careful not to go overboard.
3. Future is an excellent gloss coat and is easy to work with. It can be brushed on or sprayed and is very durable. There should be lots of past discussions on this board that will give you the basics of using Future.

Good job with the questions. Keep them coming...

M.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Runs in Gloss Coat???
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, May 5, 2003 2:07 PM
Ok what can i do i sprayed some gloss coat on the body of a 68 Camro my wife is building and i ahve some paint runs sags on 1 side i jsut applied 1 coat so far.
So my ? is what can i do to take care of thsi problem Also how many coats of gloss cote should i add im using Testors gloss cote in the spray can( I KNOW I KNOW Spray cans suck) but i dont have my airbrush in yet and my wife is tryign to race thru this model she is very excited its her very 1st Model. And i have seen some people talkign about using "FUTURE" to gloss a model so are they talkign about the "FUTURE FLOOR WAX" that you can buy at walmart and if so waht type do i need to get and how to thin it pls.
i know i ask alot of ?'s but the more i get back into modeling the more it seems i have no clue about adn im not to shy to ask for help.
Thanx for any help in advance.
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