testors plastic cement on clear plastic

I may be wrong but I dont think so. Try making a new window from testors clear parts cement, works pretty good for me

thats why I use either white glue (elmers) or testors clear parts glue... they both dry clear and dont craze the plastic...

I dont think there's anything you can do about the cement once it's on... call and order another clear piece, or make one like richter said... I broke my canopy on a N1K1 one night and within 1 week I had the new one from Tamiya and it cost maybe 4 or 5 dollars for the whole clear sprue...

Unfortunately the window is already glued in place. I have tried to remove the window as I have spares but the testors glue is does not want to release. The problem occured when I was gluing 2 other parts together.

I think someone mentioned putting your model in the freezer for awhile and then try to pop it off... the cold makes the bond with the glue a bit brittle I believe... might want to wait for someone else to reply on that one before ya ruin your model or something...

Guess there's no way to email you directly from this forum, hope you get this.

Pay a visit your local cosmetics/personal hygene counter. You are looking for a nail buffer, which is something similar in shape to an emery board but is definitely NOT an emery board. Rather than a brown color with noticable grit, a buffer has blue, red, white or gray surfaces that do not appear gritty. Also buffers are thick with a foam core. The best for modeling have 2 colors per side. These indicate increasingly fine grades.

The glue has actually pitted the surface of your clear part. Start with the coarsest grade to work out the pits. You will have a scratched but uniform surface. Then use progressively finer grades until you have restored the surface to a gloss. Harder to explain than to do. Practice on a fingernail to get the hang of it!

Good luck with the project.

There are polishing kits at good hobby stores used to buff out glossy finishes on cars. The pads go from about 1600 grit all the way down to 32000 grit. Getr a set of these and start with the 1600 and moved through the numbers. You're gonna freak when you use the harsher grits because the whole window is going to look frosty. Not to worry. By the time you get to 32k, the window is going to look better than the ones you haven't polished. As the saying goes, been there, done that.

or get one of those cheap electric toothbrushes and polish it out with toothpaste.

I've actually started doing this to most of my kits between paint and future stages, over most surfaces.
The paintjob can become incredibly deep in color and rich in finish.

I really like using a Squadron tri-grit sanding stick (Fine-Finer-Polish grit) and Future Floor polish. Look at The Complete Future stycky on the top of the Techniques page for more info on future.