Metal to metal

Thanks for the tips. I went out today and got a 3/32nd tube that I can slip over the risers like a sleeve. I think that with superglue will get the job done. I'll know soon

I'd solder them. But then I've done so much electronic soldering over the years it's second nature to me. If they are going to take any stress, and if there is a way to do it without it showing, what you might want to do is use a short piece of tubing that barely slips over the rods as a splice. That will make the joint much stronger.

As Styrene said, heat the rods and not the solder. Get a piece of ceramic tile at Lowes or Home Depot (cost is about 0.50) and it will give you a hard smooth surface to lay the parts out on. Heat the rods on one side and feed the solder in from the other. When the rods are hot enough the solder will flow through the joint.

go for epoxy, i think its less of a hassle than solder.

First, I think ajlafleche may be on to something. Try it and see.

Also, you don't specify your soldering method, so I'm assuming that:
1. You're making sure the pieces to be soldered are completely clean of any oils, greases, or other contaminants that may prevent the adherence of solder. I typically use (when I DO solder) a moderate grit sandpaper--say 320 or so--and wipe the piece down when finished.
2. You're using a good flux. I've found this to be essential in getting the solder to flow evenly throughout the joint.
3. You're heating the metal and NOT the solder.
4. You've got the right solder for the job. What I mean is that you're not using 1/2" diameter plumber's solder on 1/16" pieces. I've managed to buy some very small diameter electrical solder at Radio Shack. (Turns out the stuff is also great for making elevation springs in artillery pieces, and other scratch-built add-ons, but I digress....)

Of course, if you're really into soldering, and want to do it quick and painlessly, (and have a few bucks) go to www.micromark.com and get their resistance soldering setup.
I've heard that ebay has the same setups for a couple hundred less than Micromark.

Hope this helps.
Gip Winecoff

Solder would be the most secure way to go, but you may need a small torch to get sufficient heat for a clean job. My second choice would be Epoxy, but you will need to find a way to clamp the parts in place while it sets. Ca might work, but it only has great tensile strength, not much shear strencth.

Regards, Rick

If there's not going to be a lot of stress applied, you can use super glue or epoxy.