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"soft line" masking

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  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Reno, NV.
"soft line" masking
Posted by frontside on Wednesday, May 7, 2003 10:45 PM
still learning at this point with my first airbrush. one problem i ran into was blending white underside with blue topside on a WWII plane. i didnt want a firm line but more of a "blended" look. not sure how to mask for it to avoid overspray...thx
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, May 7, 2003 11:00 PM
I've heard of putting rolled paper (or something that lifts the edge of the tape just slighty) under the edge so that there is just a little room between it and the model. Spray away from the lifted edge then. Practice on something else to see if thats the effect you want.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: USA
Posted by naplak on Wednesday, May 7, 2003 11:17 PM
I have used fishing line. Lay the masking tape down sticky side up, and stretch out some fishing line and place it about 1/16th inch (2mm) from the edge of the tape.

Then apply the tape being careful to let this edge of the tape remain above the plastic. And DO NOT spary towards the little gap or the paint will go under it, and flow around the fishingline. It's a bit tricky, but the result is a very consistant, very small feathering that looks to scale.
www.naplak.com/modeling ... a free site for modelers www.scalehobby.com/forum/index.php ... a nice Modeling Forum
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, May 7, 2003 11:57 PM
It has various brand names, but remember the puttylike stuff for sticking posters onto walls?, comes in a flat sheet, break a bit off, roll it up, stick it on and remove it later. Whatever it's called, get some, roll it into 'worms' and there is your masking edge. Fill in the rest of the masked area with tape. The amount of feathering depends on the angle of spray in relation to the 'mask' edge, practice makes perfect!
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Lyons Colorado, USA
Posted by Ray Marotta on Thursday, May 8, 2003 2:35 PM
I've used torn pieces of newspaper slightly dampened for a blended edge but, I prefer to do it freehand. It works well for painting camo patterns, too.
I think my Badger airbrush (basic model) will do a line as narrow as 1/64th inch so I just narrow down the spray pattern and go for it

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  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Medina, Ohio
Posted by wayne baker on Thursday, May 8, 2003 3:44 PM
When I use tape for masking, I don't press down on the edge of the tape, so that some overspray can go under. I don't put anything under the edge. I have also tried to freehand with low pressure and a small opening. I have read a tip that says the spray comes out in a cone shape. If you tilt the airbrush away from the edge you are painting, you get a tighter line with less overspray. I haven't tried this myself.

 I may get so drunk, I have to crawl home. But dammit, I'll crawl like a Marine.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, September 1, 2003 7:39 PM
I've had success with three things: Rolled tape, rolled parafilm "M", and sticky-tac ( reusable putty to hang posters on walls. I like the sticky-tac best. Doesn't pull off previous color, leave a residue, and it sticks well.

Spray your color at an angle from above and the soft line comes out nicely.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, September 2, 2003 9:01 AM
I hate to mask, I bought an Iwata and just do soft edge freehand. Thin your paints, low pressure and CLOSE to the model and you can get fantastic results. I do mostly 1/72 aircraft.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, September 2, 2003 3:14 PM
All good suggestions with proven results. Another thing to try is Silly Putty. I finished the soft-edge on my 1/72 corsair with this and it worked quite well. Just roll it (like the poster sticky stuff) and lay it on where you want the line. Fill in the rest with some flattened/stretched Silly Putty or tape and you're good to go!

The great thing about 'putty' of some sort is that you can 'fine-tune' the line by just pushing it around wherever you want more/less coverage. I use a small flat-headed tool to just push the putty back or pull it in where I'd like.

Only caution I have is to be careful if you're using enamels or lacquers. If you apply them fairly heavy (ie. with a spray can), they tend to soften the Silly Putty and make it a bit of a mess to remove. Not a problem if your coats are 'light' (like with an airbrush).

Murray
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Sunny Florida
Posted by renarts on Wednesday, September 3, 2003 12:30 AM
Silly putty works great with acrylics. The rounder and higher the edge the softer it will be. Murray hit it on the nose, its too easy to use and a couple of "eggs" of the stuff will pay back big in results. Use thin sheets of it to make the hard edges "squiggle" patterns like you see on French and Japanese tanks. (BTW, it may feel oily or seem like it has a film to it, but it doesn't and it won't leave anything on the surface of the model or paint)

You can also hold a piece of torn paper about 1/4" from the surface and shoot past it. That will also create a soft edge.

Most fair to good airbrushes will give you a fine line and should be adequate for most soft edge camo patterns. Try changing the angle of the work piece and shooting upwards (i.e. from the lower edge of where the blue meets the underside white, up towards the top of the plane, or from the edge of the pattern towards the inside of the pattern area). By rotating it and shooting it from the lower side up you will sharpen the edge of the spray cone and reduce overspray spatter. Adjusting flow rate and air pressure as well as distance to surface will also adjust your paint line.

My next piece of advice would be to practice. Pick up some index stock (card stock) and practice making lines with your airbrush, areas of color, blends, fades etc. Roll up a piece of paper or cardstock into a tube and practice shooting it (as if it were a plane fuselage). Inexpensive water paints, guaches or dyes used for the airbrush and practiced with (no matter how mundane it may seem) will again pay off in results and expected results. Once you're comfortable with it, then try the same exercises with model paints. Though it may seem expensive at first, it will be a small price to pay compared to a ruined finsih on your models. Learn the limits of your airbrush and what its capable and not capable of doing. Experiment with different mixtures and air pressures. Keep a notebook or pad so that you can consistently achieve results that you have experimented with to achieve. Some paints may act differently than others. Tamiya acrylics will shoot differently than Modelmaster, than Vallejo etc. (yeah it seems like alot, but it will become second nature before you know it) Once you are familiar with it, you can try out techniques on your models, but more importantly you will understand your airbrush and not expect it to do more than you and it are capable of doing. With practice comes skills, so while you may be limited to simple patterns now, later and with experience will come greater technique and skill to try more complicated and involved designs. "It's not how good the equipment is that you fish with, its how good you fish" my dad told me. And that addage holds true for just about everything.
Good luck.

Mike
Mike "Imagination is the dye that colors our lives" Marcus Aurellius A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying, "Damn...that was fun!"
  • Member since
    December 2009
  • From: West Grove, PA
Posted by wildwilliam on Wednesday, September 3, 2003 12:00 PM
just a quick comment/warning:
the poster stuff that is recommended by many sources is "Blue Tac" i think.
be careful using bargain brand stuff.
some of them WILL pull up paint.

ed.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, September 4, 2003 1:41 PM
Wildwilliam is correct, its called "Blue Tac".
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