2 part question...

I would also suggest that if you are using an oil/laquer wash, that you use it over a gloss - semi gloss acrilyc finish instead of a laquer gloss coat. This way, the thinner in the wash won't eat away or blend in the gloss and below paint coats.
Remember, that after appling the wash you will have to clean it up some.

If worse comes to worse, you could also use an ink based wash (like Dr. Martin's Inks diluted in water)

1. The future coating lets the wash seep into the panel lines and corners and not attach on the flat surfaces because of its smoothness. If you dont apply future then you have a lot of cleaning up to do because the wash will stain also the flat surfaces. But it all depends on what you think is best. I think it works great for planes but for armour the staining effect will look better.

2. I use CA glue as seam fillers and it works great. Just remember to apply it in small amounts at a time and in the gap only. Avoid too much overspill in the areas beyond the gap. Then sand it after 1 to 2 hours before it cures fully

you probably already have it but I forgot to include it with the last message:

swannysmodels.com

cool, thanks.

not according to swanny's site... in fact he gives ratios of mixing Tamiya flat base with future to seal and dull a model at the same time... he does warn about mixing with Tamiya acrylics for colored gloss coats, he recommends using MM.

thanks for all the additional input! One more thing, I thought I read somewhere that an acryllic dull coat doesnt react well with a future gloss coat. Is that the case or am I not remembering right? Thanks.

1) I would not suggest a wash on an AC with a flat-coat, as it will naturally run much better on a gloss coat.
As for the dull coat, there are a variety of pruducts availabe. I have an old supply of Humbrol acryl dull coat. I prefer any acrylic base coat over any other base, as it's easier to clean up.

2) CA can, and indeed has been used as a gap filler for a long time. I don't use it for that purpose much myself, but others won't do without it. I use Squadron white tube putty for all my filling work

QUOTE: Originally posted by tominator hey liquid paper (white out) is also good for filling small holes, sink marks etc... its can be a bit messy to work with, but i have a pentel applicator with an extra fine point and use it quite a bit to fill small probs....

hey liquid paper (white out) is also good for filling small holes, sink marks etc... its can be a bit messy to work with, but i have a pentel applicator with an extra fine point and use it quite a bit to fill small probs....

On your flat coat question, Testors Dull Cote will work OK, but I prefer Polly Scale Flat, an acrylic.

Regards, Rick

to fill small seams try Mr surfacer 500, if you can get it. it sands great, unlike CA which can be a very tough coustomer

thanks guys. I have never used the CA before but I'll go and pick some up.

I agree that CA, at least the "gap-filling" type, works very well for filling gaps (as long as they are not too big). A couple of quick points on using CA as a gap filler --

I have found that many times it works better to use gap-filling CA along with a CA accelerator (usually in a mini-squirt bottle). Once in a while when gap filling CA is allowed to dry normally over a longer period of time (i.e. overnight), the joint or seam that I was working on ends up with a rough texture with many small voids and gaps in the joint . I haven't figured out why this sometimes occurs (other times it works fine and is nice and smooth). Please note that the accelerators can often do nasty things to your paint job, however, if the part has already been painted.

I also have found (and heard on the forum) that it is much easier to do the filing or sanding of the CA filling the gap very soon after the glue sets, but before it fully cures and hardens (I usually begin sanding and filing after only a couple of minutes if I use CA accelerator or after 10-15 minutes if I am using the "10-15 second" gap filling glue and letting it dry without accelerator). The CA gets pretty hard once it fully cures and takes a lot more time to sand or file sufficiently, even if you do not use excessive glue.

Just my two cents.

1) In general, washes always seem to perform better over a gloss coating rather than a flat - or even semi gloss - coat. You don't necessarily need to use Future. Any clear gloss coat of paint (laquer or enamel) would also work, but Future is so much cheaper.

2) Yes, CA is fairly easy to use for seam filling with practice. Sanding is minimal so long as you're careful with the CA application and don't get excessive glue outside the seam or have a heavy ridge build-up.