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Seam Removal

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6 replies
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  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, November 12, 2004 9:16 PM
lol... i forgot bout the most important part!!! ;)
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: SETX. USA
Posted by tho9900 on Friday, November 12, 2004 6:22 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by tominator

but from what ive heard tamiya's is less toxic than the other two, and it works great. i love the stuff....


yeah, but does it TASTE as good as the other two? Clown [:o)]

{disclaimer} this post does not endorse the sniffing, ingestion or otherwise dangerous handling of chemicals in any shape size or fasion. Always wear protective measures when handling glue and cement.Void where prohibited by law and in Lower Alabama
---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, November 12, 2004 1:33 AM
hey everyone has pretty much nailed it.... tho if u casnt get ur hands on ambroids or tenax(like me!) u should get some tamiya extra thin cement. its pretty much the same as the others, but from what ive heard tamiya's is less toxic than the other two, and it works great. i love the stuff....
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: SETX. USA
Posted by tho9900 on Thursday, November 11, 2004 9:01 PM
Swanny's got some great stuff there.. might I add that using a liquid welder instead of the standard cement has helped me immensely!

With the liquid welder there is only like a 10 second drying time... so you fit your fuselage together, get the pieces aligned as best you can and weld a small part (for 1/48 small means like an inch or two at a time) of the fuselage together... then refit till it matches up and weld again... keep going until the whole thing is glued together!

Ambroids and Tenax both make these welding "glues" and you can get them at most hobby shops, Hobby Lobby and online at squadron.com and greatmodels.com... the Ambroids comes in a glass bottle with a brush in it... you just brush it over the seam and hold 10 seconds and it is welded! at most there is a shiny stripe over the seam you remove with fine sandpaper... Tenax comes in a glass bottle with no brush so either you supply your own or get a capillary glue pen...

They both have the consistency of water and if left opened too long will evaporate. be careful about getting your fingers too close tot he seam while it is drying, it will make a nice indentation if you touch the area with the welding agent on it...

I still have to sand and use putty, but not near as much as before... with the traditional cements you spread it over the entire seam and have to hold the pieces together till mated... and in the meantime the seams can and in most cases do move if you aren't careful...

The liquid "welders" have made a believer out of me!!!!
---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Sandusky Ohio, USA
Posted by Swanny on Thursday, November 11, 2004 7:01 PM
Here you go ... http://www.swannysmodels.com/Seams.html
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Harrisburg, PA
Posted by Lufbery on Wednesday, November 10, 2004 1:41 PM
Lipper,

Check out this very detailed and well-illustrated guide from the Aircraft Resource Center web site:

Beginner's guide to fuselage assembling
http://s96920072.onlinehome.us/tnt1/001-100/TNT068_gluing_Wilder/tnt068.htm

That particular web page, and an article in an old Fine Scale Modeler that shows basically the same thing, has helped me immensely.

Regards,

-Drew

Build what you like; like what you build.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Seam Removal
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, November 10, 2004 1:31 PM
I'm real new to modeling and I really need some HELP. Everything I read tells me NO SEAMS! Well, if I'm putting together two body halves HOW do you eliminate this seam? PLEASE HELP ME.
Thanks so much,
Lipper
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