Q on How to Paint Stripe Conical Shape

QUOTE:

One way I have heard of is to paint the whole bomb green, let dry, dip the nose in some yellow up to the line(I would have the paint pretty thin so the excess drains well). Let that dry then dip in the green upto the width of the stripe.

I've had good luck with this method in 1/72 scale. It does take a steady hand though.

HEY,
I just read in FSM that you canuse silly-putty for armor. I am sure that you can use it for the bombs. Just use a very small piece of it and use a very sharp knife to shape it. Hope this helped.

Randy

where the hell am i going to get different size shell caseings

My girlfriend's brother has a big collection of shell casings that he found a good use for. He finds one about the right size and lines it straight, then puts it over the tip of the bomb, or nose of the plane or tank or whatever, then traces a line around with a pencil. then he masks carefully along the pencil line, then paints. Repeat with a smaller casing for the other side of the line. Voila, easy and perfect stripe. Course, I guess that most people don't have lots of empty bullets laying around, luckily I can borrow from him.

madda

Office Depot
Staples
Art supply
Art & Engineering supply
Drafting supplies
Crafts & Stuff
Michaels Crafts
Just about anyplace that sells some sort of office/drafting supplies carrys circle templates along with a bunch of other handy tools. Metal rulers, straight edges, triangles,

Mike

Good suggestion. That would solve the issue of making a strong, perfect circle. :-)

Where might you pick up one one those templates? I know what you are talking about, but haven't seen one recently. Office Depot? A place where you buy architecture/drafting supplies?

- Snacko

Same as the dixie cup, stick the nose through a circle template.

Hmm. Interesting approach Hattals. I'll give that one a try too :-)

- Snacko

The easiest way I have used is to take a "Dixie" Cup. Place masking tape (about one layer) on the outside bottom of the cup to add stength and using an Xacto Knife, cut a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the bomb, then slowly and gently push the bomb (cup should be inverted so the bomb nose protrudes from the base) out the bottom. Spray the nose of the bomb yellow. Cut another cup using the above method with a smaller hole and repeat. Waalla! This is very much like the method we use to paint the "real" ones. Only difference is we use a metal, "pre-fabed" cup.

Thanks Mike for the info :-) Lathe is probably the way to go. I may also get the FSM Dec 2002 article to see what they said.

- Snacko

*Chartpak and 3M make a ruling tape that can curve. Because it doesn't buckle when it is bent or curves it should work. Check in an office or art supply store.
*Pinstriping tape or automotive tape also curves without buckling. THey use it for taping off flame jobs on cars as well as taping off complex surfaces or shapes on cars. This also would work to tape off the conical end.
*Two blocks of wood. Mount the bomb upright or vertical with the nose in the air, this can be done with blue tack puddy or clay. The second block is for a tool rest for the brush. Use a pinstriping brush or a longer bristle lining brush with a good load of paint on it. The second block will line up with where you want to paint the stripe. Turn the bomb block and it will paint the stripe. Sort of like a lathe operation. Just be sure the bomb is vertical.
*Mount the bomb in a drill. The fins should fit in the chuck. Otherwise you have to make a turning block to fit in the drill and attach the bomb with glue to it. Depress the drill trigger slowly so it turns slowly and use the striping brush. If you mount it on its side you can use another block of wood with a finishing nail or pin as a turning center and mount the bomb like a lathe turning.
For one, or two its alot of work and I would use the tape method. But if you're going to do a bunch rig up a lathe, either manual or with the drill. Just go slow.

Good luck
Mike

Thanks guys for the suggestions :-)

- I'm not sure about the "dip" method, especially if the stripe is further away from the nose. Worried about coverage and drips. Wouldn't that cause the nose to be thicker due to the buildup, even with thin paint? Even with 1/48 bombs, the parts are pretty small and the build-up may be noticeable.

- Actually I thought about a "lathe" method, but wasn't sure how to execute it. I'm worried too about placing a bomb in a spinning mechanism where the bomb has attached to it a delicate fuse or GBU device. Might break it off. If I can figure out how to mount the bomb in a slow spinning device, this may be the ticket.

- As far as the yellow decals go, not sure about this either. I'm thinking I'll run into the same problem I'd get with masking it off - the decals wouldn't lay in a smooth circle around the cone. The problem here is that it's on a cone. If it were on a cylinder, then this would probably be the best way.

- Snacko

Cut some yellow decals into strips of the same diameter. Apply to the nose of the bomb. It sure beats trying to paint each stripe on.

There was an article on painting bomb stripes in FSM in December 2002 I think. It involved putting the olive drab bombs on a clamp mounted on a motor. As the bomb spins, gently press a paintbrush with yellow paint against the bomb. Sorry I cant go into more detail, I dont have that issue on hand.

Snacko,

One way I have heard of is to paint the whole bomb green, let dry, dip the nose in some yellow up to the line(I would have the paint pretty thin so the excess drains well). Let that dry then dip in the green upto the width of the stripe.

I may try that soon on my P-47 500lb'ers.