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Photo etched parts

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  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: USA
Posted by MusicCity on Wednesday, December 29, 2004 8:23 PM
All CA glues are NOT created equal. I'm not a chemist so I don't know specifically what the differences are, but some work great and others are junk. Most of the variants that you can find in a hardware store are junk. That includes "Super Glue" and all the knockoffs. They may work great for holding guys helmets to beams, but they don't hold model parts together worth a crap.

Personally I prefer Zap. There are undoubtedly a lot of brands around that work as well, but I haven't tried them. I've used Zap for a lot of years, it doesn't let me down, so I keep going back to it.
Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, December 29, 2004 7:35 PM
MusicCity thanks for the reply, I was just getting ready to ask a similiar question to Kizzap's.

Knowing now that CA glue is required to do photo-etched parts, what CA glue is reccomended?
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: USA
Posted by MusicCity on Wednesday, December 29, 2004 7:20 AM
Lots and lots of posts in this section about using PE parts. Do a quick search and you'll find lots of posts.

The best way I've found to cut them from the fret is to lay the entire fret on something hard (I use 6" ceramic tiles. They cost about 0.50 each at any home improvement or hardware store). Use an X-Acto knife with a #10 blade (not the pointed #11 blade but a round-tipped #10 blade), and rock the blade over the material to be cut. Once they are free from the fret you can carefully file the remaaining material off.

You will need to use either cyanoacrylate clue (CA) or epoxy to glue them. Regular model glues will not work.

The parts can be primed for painting using any primer that will adhere to metal, but clean the parts first. I use alcohol to clean them. If the parts are just to be glued in place (no masking or heavy bending) you can get away with not priming them. Acrylics, IMO, tend to work a bit better on PE than enamels since they tend to be a bit more flexible when they are dry.

One more thing, PE parts are very easy to lose. Be very careful handling them because they are easy to drop. Where possible avoid using tweezers or you'll find out what "Tweezerpult" means when they go shooting across the room.
Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page
  • Member since
    November 2005
Photo etched parts
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, December 29, 2004 5:57 AM
Today i bought a model kit after being out of the hobby for a couple of years or so. I bought a 1?32 scale zeke fighter and was surprissed to see that It has photo etched parts in it. Now i have got no idea if what I am supposed to do with photo etched parts so could someone please give me the lowdown on the whole idea?

the things i need to know are how they are removed and shaped off the sheet they come on, how to glue them to what they are getting glued to and how to prepare them for painting if they need ot be painted.

Thanks for all the help

Kizzap
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