Easiest way to mask canopys

Hi there.
I use a liquid masking agent, I think it is a latex base. Any way you can pick it up at your local hobby store. I have seen it on 1 oz bottles or bigger. I just brush it on the canopy, let it dry. Then with a SHARP exacto knife cut the masking away from the framework, and any other clear parts to be painted leaving the rest covered with latex. Then apply paint let dry, then what ever clear coats you may want to use. When it is all said and done and dry, use the edge of you exacto to peel the rest of the masking off. The result is a perfectly painted canopy frame . O, Also it may take a couple of coats of liquid latex, I usualy like mine fairly thick, just to be on the safe side. And when you buy a liquid masking agent make sure it says on the bottle that it drys clear.

Brian.

Pat, check out Swanny's site
http://www.swannysmodels.com/Canopies.html
Here he explains how to use tape strips to mask your canopies.

Personally I find the tape method very effective, but to time consuming.
Also where the tape overlaps you end up with a chunky edge when it's removed.
Foil is the only thing I use now, and seeing as your doing a 109, heres a 109 canopy I masked this week. (The one on the knife)


Because the Foil is so thin, there is no chunky edge left once it's removed, and it conforms to ANY curved surface, like the front section of the canopy.

When your trimming the foil away from your frames, use a small blade, something shorter than the usual #11 that we use and love, this will give you alot more control in guiding the blade.
Also you may want to use a curved blade, and 'roll' it along the frames, Foil takes almost zero pressure to cut.

Hope this helps

Sean is positively correct. Foil is the way to go. I've use the same technique as him for some time and will use nothing else. Curved blade also makes it easier.

As for the Bare Metal Foil, I find either the chrome or aluminum works the best. Have had trouble when experimenting with the other types.

My two cents.

George

QUOTE: Originally posted by Chorse Sean is positively correct. Foil is the way to go. I've use the same technique as him for some time and will use nothing else. Curved blade also makes it easier. As for the Bare Metal Foil, I find either the chrome or aluminum works the best. Have had trouble when experimenting with the other types. My two cents. George

Good point George.
I tried the other versions of foil, Black Chrome etc, but you definately need the shiny finish to be able to follow the lines.
This is especially true for the fainter frame work on some kits.