Masking problems

You can also stick the tape to non-hairy body parts to pick up some body oil and lessen the tapes adhesive.

You might want to verify what type of 3M blue tape you are using. Most modelers don't realize that it comes in different grades based on the level of adhesive that is required. You want the lightweight stuff. If you compare the grade with heavier adhesive applied to the backing, the tape itself will resist "crinkling" and will not form to complex curves as well as the thinner less adhesive variety. The llightweight variety will have a very thin consistency and will "crinkle" and conform much easier. Due to the limited adhesive, it is ideal for modeling applications. I strictly use acrylics with no primer and I hate to admit it, but I almost never wash the model before paint. With Tamiya acrylics I personally have never had a lifting problem once I learned about the blue tape thing. Just a thought, but it may be the root cause of your issue.

Steve

IME, acrylics work best when layed on top of a coat of primer, always had probs without a primer.
Said that I often apply a top-coat between layers too so that I can remove mistakes without touching the underlying paint layers. Needed for some of the kits I do.

If only the paint is lifting off and not the primer than i would say that your primer is either incompatible with your paints or that you are getting finger oil residue onto the primer.

Most parts/sub-asemblies that I paint I attach to wooden dowels so that I can handle the parts without having to touch them.

HTH.

Archer

Thanks for your suggestion. I do most of my work with acrylics and in the future I will probably skip the primer.

mrcurtis -

If you're using primer to show up surface defects, that's one thing. If your doing it to lighten or uniform the plastic or plastic/filler, that's OK too. Acrylic doesn't bond to plastic like enamal does, so if you're using it to help adhesion, it won't. As I only use acrylics, I generally skip the primer. The best you can do, like swanny said, is to ensure the plastic is squeeky clean; that means not only release agent, but finger iol as well. And still sometimes, it happens. A liitle sandpaper (600) and respray or light bushing fixes the problem.

Archer out.

Thank you for the suggestions. I thought that it might be the primer. Next time I will use an enamel primer.

Thanks again

I'm with Swanny on this one. I use Floquil Grey primer thinned with lacquer thinner almost exclusively & never have a problem with paint lifting.

Regards, Rick

Could be that the model was not washed completely and you still have mold release agent on the plastic. Another thought is your primer. I like to use an enamel primer cut with lacquer thinner - bonds to the plastic like nothing else.