enamel and acrylic

yes.

yeah... just let it dry completely about 24 to 48 hours... you can paint over enamel paints with acrylic and vice versa... again allowing a 24 to 48 hour windows between the coats...

Thanks guys!

I'm sorry if this sounds stupid but I havent tried priming before. I found several alternatives for Gunze's and Tamiya's: Pylox and Americana to name a couple. But I only found acrylic and lacquer primers.

My question re: a lacquer primer is if it will eat thru the plastic? Also, I use enamel paints, which means I cant use acrylic primers right? Thanks!

ragnarokk1977,

The only lacquer paint I've sprayed on plastics have been the old formula Floquil Model RR paints. (Including their primer) If you tried to apply them to bare plastic with a brush, they would literally try to eat their way through the plastic. But it was discovered that if you applied several very thin coats (with time to dry between them) with an airbrush, you could apply the lacquers to the plastic without damaging it. You weren't going to strip it off however.

As noted above you can apply enamels over acrylics and acrylics over enamels if you allow the base coat to dry throughly (24 to 48 hrs or until there is no paint smell). I know that a lot of folks who paint figures with oils use colored acrylics as a base coat. That's so the thinners in the oils won't lift the base coat while blending the top coats. Hope this helps a little.

It helped a lot, qmiester. Thanks! I need to clarify one thing though:

QUOTE: Originally posted by qmiester But it was discovered that if you applied several very thin coats (with time to dry between them) with an airbrush, you could apply the lacquers to the plastic without damaging it.

I suppose this also applies to spraycans, or am I wrong?

QUOTE: Originally posted by qmiester You weren't going to strip it off however.

And when you said that, were you referring to an instance when I need to re-apply paint?

Again, thanks!

I'd be careful of laquers in spray cans. First, the fumes could be dangerous. Second, the fumes could be dangerous. Third, the fumes could be dangerous. Lastly, these are generally formulated for automotive applications and might be too strong for use on plastics. Also, you have no real control over volume with a spray can and could easily fill in fine detail.

QUOTE: Originally posted by ragnarokk1977 It helped a lot, qmiester. Thanks! I need to clarify one thing though: QUOTE: Originally posted by qmiester But it was discovered that if you applied several very thin coats (with time to dry between them) with an airbrush, you could apply the lacquers to the plastic without damaging it. I suppose this also applies to spraycans, or am I wrong?

I agree with what ajlafleche said but you have to be realistic. Sometimes you just have to use rattlecans and alot of people have great results with either model, automotive or household rattlecan paint. I know several auto modelers who don't even know what an airbrush is and get better finishes on thier car models than I ever could with an airbrush. If you read the instructions on the can it will usually say something like "spray while keeping can at least 12" from surface". This is the rule that is most easily broken with rattlecans but if you adhere to it you will get good results. Several "mist" coats to prep the surface (let dry between each one) followed by more "mist" coats until you're happy or a "wet" coat is a good way to go..

Don't forget to try the rattlecan on an old model/scrap piece of styreen. I have my doubts with using non-modelling rattlecans. An agressive paint can ruin your model!