SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

Filling Seams I can't seem to do this good.

3158 views
9 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    November 2005
Filling Seams I can't seem to do this good.
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 23, 2005 11:47 AM
Alright basically I have built models ever since I've been 7 years old. I got out of it for a few years and now I am 18. I have built a couple of models and put decent paint schemes on them with my Airbrush. On this F-16 I'm working on now I've decided to do it up right. My problem is w/ filling seems. I'm using the Testors putty and i put it on little bits at a time and sand smooth. Just when I think it looks right I spray a light coat of paint on to check. Almost every single time there are little bumps showing.

Does anybody have any tips on this? Or possibly a better product?
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 23, 2005 12:01 PM
Testors is crap. I would reccomend using Squadron White if you need to fill a large seam. White-Out or any other correction fluid can be used for small gaps. Also, the very thick oil paint that's left after one of your paint bottle's almost had dried works.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 23, 2005 1:52 PM
Filling seams can be hard, First off, buy a quality model (recommend not US manufacturers) Secondly, i always glue in strengthening spars.They take time to make and fit, but it is so well worth it. Buy doing this, you increase your gluing surface by two. If it is done right, the fusalage or what ever, will almost stay together by its self. In some cases, time is your best friend. Be patient!!!! Use Squadron filler, sparingly, and let it dry for a few days between applications. after you think you have the right profile, spray some acrylic paint over the surface. let it dry, then with a very fine sanding paper or sanding pad, sand the paint away, vary your patterns though. the paint that is left will show you where any low spots still are. as in all modeling techniques, this takes time to perfect! I got pretty good at it building US made models! HA HA The higher quality Japanese and Chinese models need a lot less filling /sanding, and leave more time and patience to use in completing your model! Happy filling!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 23, 2005 2:35 PM
falcon: there's a fellow here on the forums, his name is Swanny, and he has a website, and particularly, a "Tools and Tips" section. And in this, he has a tutorial on seam repair. Here's a link to Swanny's Tools and Tips page:

http://www.swannysmodels.com/Tools.html

Bookmark it, it will come in handy. In fact, someone should start a thread on all modelling tips, all you have to do is go to Swanny's Tools & Tips!

Swanny is as good a model builder as I have seen. Period.

All hail Swanny!
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Sandusky Ohio, USA
Posted by Swanny on Sunday, January 23, 2005 8:03 PM
Aw shucks Blush [:I]
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Philomath, OR, USA
Posted by knight667 on Tuesday, January 25, 2005 6:19 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by MACooke

falcon: there's a fellow here on the forums, his name is Swanny, and he has a website, and particularly, a "Tools and Tips" section. And in this, he has a tutorial on seam repair. Here's a link to Swanny's Tools and Tips page:

http://www.swannysmodels.com/Tools.html

Bookmark it, it will come in handy. In fact, someone should start a thread on all modelling tips, all you have to do is go to Swanny's Tools & Tips!

Swanny is as good a model builder as I have seen. Period.

All hail Swanny!


Sign - Ditto [#ditto]
John "The only easy day was yesterday." - US Navy SEALs "Improvise. Adapt. Overcome." - US Marine Corp. "I live each day/Like it's my last/...I never look back" - from "I'm A Rocker" by Judas Priest
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, January 27, 2005 3:02 PM
Healy's right, what you work with dtermines what kind of outcome you get, Testors is pretty bad stuff.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 28, 2005 1:59 AM
In some cases try "Zap a Gap" or similar kind of superglue.
Cures in a minute and you are ready to sand to a smooth surface.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 28, 2005 2:18 AM
I use a different method to Swanny, you will need to decide which works best for you.

Materials:
Tube putty
Thinner
Rag
Toothpick

I mix some of the tube putty(Tamiya or Gunze in my case) with the thinner to get it into a pasty consistency.
Apply over and into the seam.
Next take a rag soaked with thinner and run it over the seam removing any excess, avoiding of course removing putty from the seam.
Pick out your putty paste from detail while still soft.
Let dry and sand down if needed.

Process can be repeated if needed.

There is another method I use but I think it might give a few guys gray hairs, as it involves removing ALL the alignment pins. Wink [;)]
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: NYC, USA
Posted by waikong on Friday, January 28, 2005 9:30 AM
I use both Swammy's method and Model Museum's with a variation. I apply squadron putty (I go along with everyone and advise against Testor's putty) and then dip a q-tip into nail polish remover (the one's made with acetone) and use it to wipe the seam unitl smooth. After letting it dry, with practice no or minimal filing will be needed. You still need to put some paint down to make sure you got it smooth though.
JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.