mold-release??

I mix up a rich (ie. strong) mixture of Dawn dishwashing detergent and water. Dawn is great for removing oil, grease and wax. I then rinse the parts in water.

Soap and water are ok. You can us Bleache white, used to claen tires too.

definetly go with warm water adn dish detergetn (small amount) and dry it very carefully. there are many products out there bu this is a very very good alternative

Darren
I used Testors cement for plastic models. And I cleaned the parts first with warm water and soap. The paint was fine and the decals . It was the parts just came apart but just some of the model did you can see the glue line it just did not melt the parts together like is't made to do.
But I now use Model Master Liquid cement from Testors and it works very good and fast to.
Merle

I often will clean the model with alcohol or acrylic thinner, not cleaner.

This question is for Merle,

What type of glue are you using? I'm guessing it's a superglue of some sort. Styrene cement softens the plastic and bonds the two parts together. I would think that mold release agent would not affect it too much. Where as superglue just sits on the surface of the plastic holding the parts together. That's why your able to pry the pieces apart if you need to. Just a thought.

As far as paint sticking to the model. Everyone mentioned cleaning the parts before assembly. Does anyone give the completed model a final cleaning just prior to paint? I use isopropyl alcohol.

Darren

Hi there everyone,

Plastic prep I use rubbing alcohol (cheap from Walmart) never had a problem with paint adhering.

PE I rub gently with wire wool then soak in alcohol, I keep a tall candy jar full of it and dip the parts as I need them. Some of those frets can get pretty big. I have Little Ships full detail set for Revells Flower class corvette, its huge. Teaching myself to solder for this project.

Andy (SGT US ARMY)

For plastics I use Formula 409. It's a degreaser which is exactly what you're trying to do. After spraying the parts with 409 I wash them with warm water. This is a very easy way to clean up all your parts quickly and at a low cost.

For photo etching I use denatured alcohol. I wouldn't use 409 for this purpose though.

upnorth, I've never had a problem with Eduard or Airwaves photo-etch. Isopropyl or acetone should take care of any contamination. Some modelers roughen the surface with wire brushes or sandpaper, and others anneal the brass or, especially, stainless steel to make it easier to fold.

I'm for the alcohol too.

I've described my method for using it to strip and breakdown old models in another thread, and I do the same thing to get rid of mold release agents.

As metioned before, Eastern European kits (I would say particularly the older ones) are really slicked up with mold release. If Isopropyl alcohol can strip away old paint and weaken the bonds of styrene cement, then mold release is a walk in the park for it to deal with.

Now, on the matter of surface preparations, do any of you have a good method for cleaning up frets of photo etched metal before using them. I've heard some sort of cleanup is required for them, but I don't work with photo etch if I can at all avoid it, so I really don't know whats recomended there.

Washing with warm soapy water works fine but I use Isopropyl alcohol, buy it at the chemists. I use an old tooth brush to clean complex parts and a cloth to clean flatish parts. Being alcohol it dries in seconds.
Mal

I've had good luck using Windex, but I've also done fine with dish detergent and warm water, scrubbing with an old toothbrush. Some kits from Eastern Europe are slathered with mold release, as are some resin kits.

I have tryed the warm water wash but it don't help. back when i started there was not much need to wash everything was ok now it's like thay use more of the release and you have to get it all off or the glue don't hold right.
thank's
Merle

I've read that it's recommended to wash the parts in warm water and mild detergent. I haven't seen anything in regards to how long - but I've wondered how long a person should spend washing/soaking plastic parts.

Personally, I've never experienced trouble with that sort of thing, but I've started washing the plastic parts now. With Games Workshop's miniatures, years ago there wasn't any mention about washing the plastic miniatures, but recently I've noticed that this is now a recommended step in preparing miniatures.