CA applicator

This is a great tip Eric. Thank you for sharing it with us.

I use cocktail sticks. Could not model anymore without them... I also use them to apply pva glue, putty, epoxy putty, to recreate bolts and rivets with dimensional fabric paint, sculpt epoxy putty and fimo/sculpey, clean engraved panel lines, 'handle' and place tiny parts (with a bit of spit), mix paints, paint eyes, as 'axis' to paint wheels without putting paint all over my fingers,....

I like the CA tip. I've been looking for a better way to do this. I either get way too much, or no where near enough. I'm going to try this one out Eric. Much appreciated.

And Domi, the cocktail stick idea is awesome too! Toothpicks just don't seem to cut it for me when I'm holding parts, etc. I'm heading out at noon to pick up some cocktail sticks and needles...

Murray

I use the same method as ERUSH with a slightly different twist. Rather than using a pin vise to hold the needle, I insert the sharp end of the needle into the eraser end of an old lead pencil stub to use as a handle. This will allow several different sizes to be available for use at the same time before the CA glue dries.

After the excess glue dries on the applicator, just scrape it off with an old number 11 blade. Good as new!

Pete

I have tried most of these applicators but the one I like best is an old style drafting ink pen. They have an adjustable "jaw", designed for different widths of inked lines, so different quantities of CA cement can be held in these jaws. For ease of cleanup, the jaws open fully. Anybody who ever took a drafting class in the 50's to '70's has one of these lying around.
Tony Ryan

I use the same draftng pen idea. But I use testors liquid cement in mine. The capillary action works fantastic!

hmmm....

That is so much better than just dumping a big quarter size glob of CA glue in my hand and then dipping the model peices in it.

Haha Ron you're a nut.

I actually use the lids off of Pringles cans to place my drop of glue. They can be cleaned off by bending and popping off the dried glue, or just eat another can full of chips and you have a brand new one

Eric

Depends on the size of the part, but for small stuff I use thin brass wire with the end formed into a loop with a pair of really fine round nose pliers. Wire of between .010 and .020 seems to work the best for me. When it gets clogged, I just toss it and cut another piece off the spool (or the rod, for the thicker ones).

For flat parts, I dip the part into a small pool of liquid CA, bring it over to a nearby paper towel, wick off the excess and rapidly place the part in place. Not much room for error with this technique, but with practice it is precise and neat.

To hold parts, I have two really good pairs of tweezers that I really do my best not to abuse. Still, they need some work with a handstone from time to time to keep in top condition. When sharpened they will pick up a single hair with no trouble.

I also use a very sharp scalpel to move and postion parts that will not show the tiny pinprice it leaves. What is nice about that technique is that it holds pretty firmly, but releases well.

Kurt

Hey, erush--- The next time you go to Wally World, checkout the special needles called Beading Needles. They are small gauge, long, and have " eyes " that are longer than regular sewing needles. With the longer eyes, you can vary the size of the " charge " of glue without having to change needles.

I just use toothpicks for CA, and crap brushes for the kicker, if needed.


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