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QUICK TIPS

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, February 26, 2004 12:16 PM
For your flat glass needs try to find an old computer glass screen used to low the brightness of the computer monitor, I have found mine at work as a leftover....it has the perfect size and I works perfect fo me!
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Brooklyn
Posted by wibhi2 on Thursday, February 26, 2004 12:14 PM
I use a white sheet of bainbridge board (relatively inexpensive) as work surface.

A 12x12 mirroerd glass sample as a paint pallette and surface. There are a number of benefits from this, especially for figure painters.

ceramic tile samples make great bases for most small planes

Always cut away from your fingers.
3d modelling is an option a true mental excercise in frusrtation
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, February 25, 2004 6:42 PM
Am sure everyone has used cigar boxes for parts or whatever. Another useful item is the wooden boxes wine comes packed in. These are larger than cigar boxes and usually of quality construction. Check your local liquor dispenser or better yet, by a box for the better-half and score points.Big Smile [:D]
  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: Connecticut, East of the River
Posted by tlivancso on Tuesday, February 24, 2004 6:22 PM
These are really great tips. Here is one that I found to be very useful and inexpensive also. I like to lay paper down on my work surface to keep it clean. I found that if you go to the local U-Haul store and buy a box of their Wrapping Paper it is clean white newsprint type paper. The box is about 10lbs worth of paper, it is in 20" x 27" sheets and cost about $8.95 / box. It is also great to lay under my glass work plate.

Cheers
Thom

IPMS Member #42958 /  AMPS Member #2091

IPMS Central Connecticut (President)

IPMS Northeast Military Modelers Association (Web Master)

Like Alice "I try to believe in three impossible things before breakfast"

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, December 17, 2003 9:36 PM
These tips are all fantastic ideas, and I 'd like to add my own....I was hunting for a container to mix my paint in, when I looked down at my 20 oz. soda, and realized the cap would be perfect.....after rinsing off the soda caps over and over, I realized that the same type of caps are found on many of the small (15 oz I believe) water bottles that everyone drinks these days, and you don't have to rinse them off before use!!! I now have a large bag of them, and I'm done searching for mixing "bowls".
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, December 10, 2003 7:33 PM
You can get the 35mm canisters at places like walgreens and such. I just go to the developing counter and ask the clerk if they have any extra. Last time they gave me a plastic bag full that has lasted me for over a year now Smile [:)] Every time Ive asked for them, they have given them to me for free.
  • Member since
    February 2003
Posted by Jim Barton on Wednesday, December 10, 2003 4:56 PM
Lots of modelers have extolled the virtues of 35mm film cannisters. Unfortunately, I'm one of the few people left that still uses an old Kodak that takes 110 film so I don't get those nifty 35mm cannisters, and even if I did, at the rate I take pictures, one roll can sometimes last six months. (Unless there's a model contest near Los Angeles, then I'm clicking away like the paparazzi at Michael Jackson's house.Smile [:)]) So I use the little plastic containers that come with take-out food that hold hot sauce, Parmesan cheese or the like. Just make sure they're nice and clean and they have lots of uses from holding small parts to storage to mixing paint. (One caution if you use them to mix paint: On rare occasions, the paint might eat through the plastic where the walls meet the base; when I mix paint, I double the cups to prevent any leakage on the workbench.)

"Whaddya mean 'Who's flying the plane?!' Nobody's flying the plane!"

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, December 3, 2003 9:08 PM
Don't know if anybody else uses this, but i use Glad's press and seal to mask canopies. Works exactly like Parafilm M, and you can easily buy it at your local Super market. All you have to do is to rip off a small piece, and just press it onto the surface of the canopy. Then just cut out the frames, and then paint. I also use it to mask off some areas for painting on the model it self.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, December 2, 2003 10:56 PM
Possibly common tips:
Use sprues as stir sticks.
Use sprues as bases or holders when painting

For temp spray booth (cardboard box), use foam strips and tape to make it sturdy.

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Central USA
Posted by qmiester on Tuesday, December 2, 2003 7:58 PM
There's been some great ideas here.
Here's one I learned a long time ago. I keep the packets that over the counter pills come in, the bubble type with the aluminum foil on the back. If you are very careful (or use a knife to cut the aluminum) you won't damage the bubbles. I use them to mix small amounts of paint and expecially to mix washes in. Plus they are disposable.
Quincy
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, December 2, 2003 6:19 PM
I actually use a surgical scapel a neighbor gave to me. VERY sharp and precicse. The handle is long but flat so it doesnt roll. However, a few times it has been accidentally nudged off the table and landed in between a few toes.

For easy washes: airbrush paint. Flows like water. See the link below

http://www.finescale.com/fsm/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10977
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by cassibill on Tuesday, December 2, 2003 12:52 PM
Bacon.-The thin sheet of plactic that comes in it is a great palette for acrylics. When the paint is dry you can just peel it off. One side is smooth the other textured. Use the smooth side and the other side will be semi-non-skid. The meaty stuff in the box is edible when cooked

cdw My life flashes before my eyes and it mostly my life flashing before my eyes!!!Big Smile The 1/144 scale census and message board: http://144scalelist.freewebpage.org/index.html

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Foothills of Colorado
Posted by Hoser on Tuesday, December 2, 2003 12:25 PM
Lots of tips on using glass, here's another. I have a piece about 4" x 6" from an old photo frame that I tape some 400 grit paper to. Perfect for sanding flat surfaces.
For spraying very small parts drill a small hole in a mounting point and superglue in a small piece of wire the same diameter as the hole. The part wont fly off, you can attach a part on each end and when dry a good tug pops it right off.
Pieces of coat hanger wire with small alligator clips soldered to the end are great for holding parts for spraying (or the wire mentioned above).
"Trust no one; even those people you know and trust." - Jack S. Margolis
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, November 30, 2003 6:03 PM
RadioShack has a small pair of wire cutters that is ideal for removing plastic parts from the sprue and are only $3.99 (At least in my area anyway). This is cheaper than any other cutters made for this job.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, November 30, 2003 12:40 AM
Some very very good tips in here! I just read all 4 pages and would like to offer one of my own....

For the auto modelers out there need a dust free enviroment while waiting for that auto body to dry/cure...use a sterilite 4qt container...available at Walmart or even better Dollar tree....works great no dust....and they are cheap enough you can have several so you dont have to wait for one body to dry before you start another!
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Dahlonega, Georgia
Posted by lizardqing on Saturday, November 29, 2003 10:07 PM
Here's one that Petbat let me in on that I tried out and had great results at getting chipped paint look:

Make a little square out of a Scotchbrite scourer pad, and dip it onto a little metallic grey paint so that the paint only sticks to the parts of the scotchbrite that stick out (ie do not dip it completely) so it is not going to drip. Then gently push the scotchbrite onto areas where paint chips will occur - floor, stowage bins, supports, etc) You will be amazed at the result
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, November 29, 2003 3:41 AM
When I'm applying scenic grass or dirt to a diorama, I sprinkle on generously so I can pat it down into the glued surface. Then after a night of drying, I'll us a paint brush on the excess to break it up and follow up with a dust buster that has a nylon stocking over the end to suck up the extra. The Stocking keeps it all together so that I can reuse it. If for some reason, there is a mixture of grass and dirt together, I save in a seperate container to use on dio's that the landscape isn't so critical on.

If you're using a knife of any sort to trim/cut parts and the part is so small you feel that you absolutely have to hold it in you hand, for gosh sakes, where leather gloves. Even better would be knife proof gloves that many fisherman use. One day I was cutting a small part and while I was cutting I was thinking to myself, "this is du..." That was as far as I got before I sliced of a hunk of my right index finger. It healed, but the scar is still there and shows no sign of ever going away.

DonAlien [alien]
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, November 28, 2003 7:15 AM
Hi all,
I use Testors plastic liquid cement to thin out green squadron putty. You can make the filler as thin as you want for less sanding and you can use an old paint brush to apply it with more acceracy. I usually use an old 35mm film canister to mix the stuff, that way if you mix too much, you just put the lid on the canister and it will last for several days. Just remember to have good ventilation.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, November 27, 2003 8:36 PM
I learned this one the hard way when i was just a young lad trying to cut the cannopy (which I had secured with no less than a pint of good ol' toothpaste tube model cement) off of an f-18 model I was building. Anyway, this is prolly a tip for new modelers. Change your number eleven blades often, never never never work with a dull knife. As I was trying to cut this cannopy off of the model with this old knife that might have cut butter if it was hot enough.. it slipped and went about a half inch into my finger. No stitches, but in the end a very bloody f-18 model.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, September 15, 2003 9:41 AM
Here is one I picked up from Testors a number of years ago.

Use a piece of fine grit sand paper to remove the gloss from tire tread for autos. It gives the appearance of tire wear. Rub the sand paper lightly just enough to remove the gloss and not the tread. This tip works great for rear dragster tires both on the tread and side walls to give that "I just had 1500 horse power tear through me" look.

On the subject of dragster tires. If you heat them to almost melting point, you can twist them to make them look used and abused. When you have the desired twist, plunge it into cold water to set the twist and shape of the tire. Make sure you twist the tire the right way or it will look like the car is going backwards. I use a dowel rod through the center of the tire to hold the middle still while twisting the outside of the tire. Does this make sense or need I explain more.?
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, September 14, 2003 1:04 PM
I like to use discarded parts sprues for making spark plug wires, radio antenna, hood props or any other various thin sort of cords, wires, or bars. They make good material for roll cages

By heating the sprue with a little votive candle it can be stretched to a thinner diameter. Then simply cut to your desired length, paint, and glue in place.

A painting tip I like to use for airbrushing my acrylic paints on vehicle bodies: Add a little bit of ProModeler arcrylic based aluminum to your base color. It adds a hint of metallic sheen to the paint that only shows when viewed from particular angles and lighting conditions.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, September 13, 2003 2:30 PM
I find myself laughing while reading some of these posts. I didnt realize there were so many other modelers out there making some of the same goofy mistakes Ive made, i.e the Mk 11 X Acto rapid rolling missile and the paint thinner jar mixup. what can I say, I got the tshirt! anyway, heres my tip for the day:
For modelers who use acrylics looking for a good brush on mask I use Mold Builders Liquid Latex rubber. (found in art supply or craft stores) You get a 16 oz jar for around $10 and lasts forever. I use it to mask areas on figures, mainly their flesh and I also use it for masking canopys. Just make sure you seal "everything" before applying this stuff as it will peel any paint away thats not sealed first. I usuall give my figures 2 or 3 coats of sealant just to make sure I got all those nooks and crannies.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, September 13, 2003 5:20 AM
Never throw away anything that could possibly have any use for modelling

My favourite is the plastic canister 35mm film comes in, great for storing small parts, mixing paints, etc.

And never stand in the arc of the propeller, even if its not moving.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, September 13, 2003 3:46 AM
gluing technique. i dont know if this is new... old or odd.

happened to come by it purely on accident... seems thats the theme here :D

in recent i am in the middle of about three projects. one is a model, one is restoral of a model and the other is putting an internal front light in a gameboy advanced. i was reinstalling a side view mirror on to an auto model i was retoring when i noticed this 30ga wire on my desk from the gameboy project. it was perfect for the application of the glue. becuase it was such a thin wire, it picked up very small amounts of glue at a time. i am using tamiya standard cement by the way. i'd dip the tip of the wire in to the glue then lightly use this single strand as a brush to dab very tiny amounts of glue to these tiny items. it turned out exactally the right amount of glue every time. no gush out the sides of the part, and the part was stongly glued too. since the wire has a vinyl sheath, the glue peels off after it dries so the wire is reusable many times.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, September 9, 2003 12:05 PM
got one. You know the constant aol offers, the cd inside a metal box. Well if you neet a place to store small parts, spares and other things they are perfect for it
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Posted by Jeeves on Tuesday, September 9, 2003 7:48 AM
Not sure how common this is-- but I love the look on it. I have been successful at adding some realism to my Beaufighter, Spitfire, and Hurricane by taking very small bits of masking tape, painting them flat red, and putting them over the gun and cannon ports on these planes. To make them look like they have been in battle, take a pin and poke a hole through them from the inside. A drop of glue to attach and it looks great!

If you can find yourself one of the very small Swiss Army knifes that they usually sell near the cash registers, you get a small set of scissors for trimming decals, a small tweezers, a toothpick for moving decals around, a knife, and a file.

Mike
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Tochigi, Japan
Posted by J-Hulk on Tuesday, September 9, 2003 6:35 AM
Hey, Madda!

Wasabi makes a great quick seam filler and putty, and shoyu (soy sauce) makes an excellent wash!

Can't say much about their staying power, though...Wink [;)]
~Brian
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, September 8, 2003 10:26 PM
Machine guns of the first and second world war were very dirty machines, often leaving large black streaks on airplane wings for example. (.50 calibre machine guns are still called "mud guns" because the oil and burned cordite leave a huge mess.) POint being, to simulate the residue left on wings etc. I scrape a pastel, gathering a pile of dust that can be dry brushed onto the model very effectively. Remember that since air moves more slowly on the underside of an airfoil (the bottom of the wing) it will have a heavier soil deposit.
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Broken Arrow, Oklahoma
Posted by maddafinga on Monday, September 8, 2003 1:09 PM
I get a set or two of these a week actually, but I usually just throw them away. A grocery store up the road sells sushi and gives the sticks away free with it. I may have to save a set or two of them now. Not a bad idea on that one. Do you have any alternate uses for wasabi?

madda
Madda Trifles make perfection, but perfection is no trifle. -- Leonardo Da Vinci Tact is for those who lack the wit for sarcasm.--maddafinga
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