scribing panel lines: you use a squadron or bmf or other brand scriber and use a steel rular and scribe.
to get scratches out of clear plastic: you use finer and finer grits of sandpaper till about 2000 or more, then you use either tamiya compound, plastic polish, or car wax/polish. then future.
seatbelts: you use masking tape to make the fabric stuff, then you use aluminum foil for the buckles. or you can use resin ones
streching spruce: you light a candle or zippo, then hold a piece of spruce over. when it starts to pull apart, you lift it from the flame and pull. slow pull= 1/16 rod. quick pull = almost hair width.
washes: you thin paint in water and use a small brush to get it into the lines.
future floor wax: see the faq above
tamiya clear flat: you mix it with gloss paints to make them flat. do not use like a clearcoat.
bare metal finish: you sand the model untill about 2000 grit. then you apply alclad/snj /metalizer to the model. use gloss primer or future floor wax
masking canopies: use parafilm and cut it to shape or use x-press masks from eduard or similar
tinting canopies: mix clear gloss/future with a little bit of paint. apply a THIN coat then apply another THIN coat.
photoetch is for extra details, stuff that isn't included in the model, and stuff that is a poor representation. think about them like detail-up
to cut circles in plastic, use a cutting cumpas
to correct warps, soak the piece in almost hot water, water that is warm enough to stick your hand in. after soaking, bend.
to fill gaps, glue the part together WELL then aply putty/gap filling superglue. sand putty after it is dry, and sand gap filling superglue after about 5 minutes. after that it will be too hard.
to fix sjkuff marks, use an eraser then sand and repiant