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Resin vs. Plastic

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  • Member since
    February 2004
Resin vs. Plastic
Posted by glock232 on Friday, April 29, 2005 8:34 PM
Hi again!
A week or so ago i had asked about making resin parts with silicon mold and how do you get the original out of the silicon.. well my question was answered, now im sitting here thinking to myself.. " why do i want to use resin, whats wrong with regular old plastic parts?" The only work i have done with resin is a 120mm figurine from verlinden, aside from being a pain to cut, to me it just seemed more sturdier than plastic. But i also thought, if im doing a NASCAR model again, and i cast the engine in silicon and make a resin engine that would probally look better.. but im not sure if my thinking is right or not.. basically, what is your opinion of using resin over regular plastic parts?

P.S. for those wondering.. well if you dont know why use resin over plastic.. why are you bothering using it at all.. I am a jack of all trades, i get into a new hobby and i dive in both feet. Modeling is something that i have always done since i was about 10 yrs old. Now i look for ways to make it more interesting, and i think this is my next step. I saw it in the May issue and wanted to try it, i let it go about a week or so and I still have the idea in my head.. so I have to try it or else it will haunt me..
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Third rock from the sun.
Posted by Woody on Saturday, April 30, 2005 2:29 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by glock232

why do i want to use resin, whats wrong with regular old plastic parts?"

I use resin to make duplicate parts and whole kits. Why resin instead of styrene? I can't afford the $100,000 for an injection molding machine.

" I wish to have no connection with any ship that does not sail fast; for I intend to go in harm's way." --John Paul Jones
  • Member since
    February 2004
Posted by glock232 on Saturday, April 30, 2005 6:12 AM
LOL thats pretty honest i doubt many of us would be able to buy an injection machine.. I never thought of using the resin to reproduce a whole kit.
I was going to just buy the starter kit from micro mark, do you recommend that or is there another spot i should look at to get started with the molding and resin?
  • Member since
    August 2004
  • From: Kennesaw, GA
Posted by jdavidb on Saturday, April 30, 2005 9:23 AM
You could get into it one part at a time instead of getting everything at once. First, you could be working on how you will create masters from wood, sculpting putty, or whatever you'll use. That's really where the work is. Once you're good at that, get into making the mold tools from the rubber or the clay... however you plan to do the molds. Once you've got your skills up in those two areas, get the resin parts and pour it Party [party] There's no need to have mold compounds or resin solutions sitting on the shelf when you've got nothing to cast.

Plain ol' plastic is still important. I like building from rods, strips, tubes & sheets. You don't get to do injection molding with it, so vacuforming and theraforming would be the extended, major area of stock styrene building. The big plus to that is you get to use Tenax, Ambroid or Plastruct weld solvents along with model putties. This could be thought of as being in the area of making masters prior to molding. It's the way to sculpt without clay or wood.

Then there's the finished resin parts which can handle harsh paints without crazing like styrene does. I don't know the limit to what paints resin can handle, but it's pretty high.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Third rock from the sun.
Posted by Woody on Saturday, April 30, 2005 1:11 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by glock232

I never thought of using the resin to reproduce a whole kit.
I was going to just buy the starter kit from micro mark, do you recommend that or is there another spot i should look at to get started with the molding and resin?

The Micro-Mark kit is a good kit and contains all you need to get started. You will have to come up with mold boxes for larger parts though. As was stated above, don't buy the resin until you have something to cast. Resin has a shelf life.

" I wish to have no connection with any ship that does not sail fast; for I intend to go in harm's way." --John Paul Jones
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Central USA
Posted by qmiester on Tuesday, May 3, 2005 6:48 PM
Over the years, I've detailed many a cockpit with stretched sprue, sheet plastic and the occassional piece of very small diameter solder. And I'll do it again especially on a model for which there is no AM resin or PE
As far as making parts with resin, I usually do it if I'm going to be making more than one of a particular model. For example, several years ago I built several versions of the Pzkw III. The particular kit I was basing the models on didn't have the side escape hatches, and several other items which the earlier versions did have. So I scratch built the parts (or borrowed them from other kits), made molds and produced the parts. And the most accurate exhaust system was actually on a kit of the Stug III and I wanted to build that also, so I made a mold of the Stug exhaust system and cast that too. And I'll probably do it again in the future.
I guess what I'm trying to say is that all three methods (AM resin, homebuilt resin and scratch built styrene) are all viable methods to get what you want. It's up to you as to which you use for a particular situation.
Quincy
  • Member since
    May 2004
  • From: Chester, UK
Posted by mikeiw on Monday, May 23, 2005 6:51 AM
On a similar note, would a styrene original (for example a mossie seat in 1/32nd) stand up to being pulled out of a silicon mould after setting, or would we be looking & removing it in bits?
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