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old cracked road

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  • Member since
    April 2004
  • From: Boston MA
old cracked road
Posted by vespa boy on Wednesday, May 4, 2005 2:40 PM
I'm building a 1/24 scale diorama which includes some old cracked and reparied bitumen. I can replicate the new black top with PVA wood glue and silicon carbide grit. But I have not been able to make realistic cracks in the road surface...the best so far has been to prepare the road as normal but on a sheet of paper. Roll the paper and adhere it onto the diorama. Its OK but not great.

Any suggestions are most welcome. Thanks.

http://public.fotki.com/nkhandekar

This ain't no Mudd Club, or C.B.G.B.,
I ain't got time for that now

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: returning to the FSM forum after a hiatus
Posted by jinithith2 on Wednesday, May 4, 2005 9:03 PM
well if you can get it into a stiff road block, drop it on a medium hard surface and then glue it together, only with the crack.
or if you want just one crack, put a pencil on the carpet and then drop ot. the pencil will concentrate the force on to one spot, thus causing one break point
just an idea....
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, May 9, 2005 1:53 AM
I found this website on the internet which will help you no end. It has everything on making diorahmas models from doing roads to craters in the ground. enjoy
http://www.staff.ncl.ac.uk/nikolas.lloyd/models/models.html
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, May 9, 2005 3:56 AM
Every downside has hits upper?

I'm redoing a room for my 2-year old son. He is supposed to move out of the 'babyroom' to make place for 'someone else'.

Last week I filled the holes in the wall with some plaster from a tube. SOme were quite large, but I just had enough. This dried out fine for the small parts. The places that hat 'craters' in them, apparantly were too large for this stuff. It dried up all with cracks, that would seem 'nice' from your point of view. I'm not happy with it, but with a thick coat of paint the craks will probably fill up nicely.

Although a little expensive (tube for approx $ 12,- at my DIY-shop), you might want to try using this paste on al large surface, which will probably dry up all cracked if spread overe a large surface in a thin coat. Be sure to get the stuff that is only meant for small cracks and holes in walls.
  • Member since
    April 2004
  • From: Boston MA
Posted by vespa boy on Monday, May 9, 2005 9:51 AM
Thanks for the suggestions. I am modelling a specific scene and need a lot of control over where the cracks appear. My solution is, in effect, to make my own sandpaper on thin paper with carbide abrasive and glue. As I glue it down to the base I can tear the paper and align the cracks.

http://public.fotki.com/nkhandekar

This ain't no Mudd Club, or C.B.G.B.,
I ain't got time for that now

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