Wash for figures?

Aviator, here's how I do it.....
Paint your figures with acrylic or other water-based paint first. Use care and paint like it's the final coat. Get all the details down, etc. Set aside for a couple days to make sure it's thoroughly dried.

After it's dried, mix a small blob of burnt umber oil paint (about the size of a burnt matchhead) and some mineral spirits. The oil pigments will mix with the mineral spirits and will take on the appearance of dirty thinner. With this thin mixture at hand, apply it to the entire figure, making sure you work the wash into the nooks and crannies. Blot away excessive wash.

Let the wash dry and go back over the high spots with a mineral spirit-dampened Q-tip to remove the wash from places it shouldn't be. The key here is to let the wash flow into the crevices and shadow areas of the figure and remove the wash from everywhere else.

Since your underlying paint is acrylic, no damage will be done by the wash and you'll be able to remove as much or as little as suits you. When done, let the wash set for a day or so before putting any finishing touches to the figure.

My first try with this was such a success that I actually am looking for ways to put figures on my models!

Good luck!

Dennis

Thanks sh00ter. I already have the figures glued in, so I'll have to give it a try on my next model with figures. Thanks though.

Aviator, if you haven't already seen it, read the July FSM. THey published an article specifically addressing painting aircraft figures. It has some good technizues, IMHO.

I know. They wait until after I paint them. I'll have to try that on my next figures.

You could put a drop or three of that glue release, pop out the figures and paint them with a wash...
"RC"

QUOTE: Originally posted by sh00ter Aviator, here's how I do it..... Paint your figures with acrylic or other water-based paint first. Use care and paint like it's the final coat. Get all the details down, etc. Set aside for a couple days to make sure it's thoroughly dried. After it's dried, mix a small blob of burnt umber oil paint (about the size of a burnt matchhead) and some mineral spirits. The oil pigments will mix with the mineral spirits and will take on the appearance of dirty thinner. With this thin mixture at hand, apply it to the entire figure, making sure you work the wash into the nooks and crannies. Blot away excessive wash. Let the wash dry and go back over the high spots with a mineral spirit-dampened Q-tip to remove the wash from places it shouldn't be. The key here is to let the wash flow into the crevices and shadow areas of the figure and remove the wash from everywhere else. Since your underlying paint is acrylic, no damage will be done by the wash and you'll be able to remove as much or as little as suits you. When done, let the wash set for a day or so before putting any finishing touches to the figure. My first try with this was such a success that I actually am looking for ways to put figures on my models! Good luck! Dennis

Thanks ShOOter...But don't you rub off the acrylic paint when you use the Q-tip taking off the wash over the acrylic?...I used that technic when weathering my Mack 1929 Bulldog dump truck Drive chain & sprocket's, I shot silver, then rust, then black, used a Q-tip and water to rub off the upper layers of paint so the drive chain looked old, little silver left, rusty and black & oily too...

Oh! I see now!... LOL.... Just don't rub as hard as weathering huh?...Thank you...I'll try your way on my 1929 Mack Truck Driver & Swamper Figures... I didn't know how to do them either......"Thank You again!" "I've never painted figures yet!" "RC"

umm... dumb question, what is... mineral spirits??

That s not a DUMB Queston as I really don't know my self if it is denatutured alcohol solvent or Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol.. I'd like to know too...Someone please tell us as I've also heard that Lacquer thinner is also referred to as mineral spirits?.......
Thanks in advance "RC"

I've just read the "Easy aircraft figures" on page 34 in the July 2005 FSM and will be following these basic steps too...It says its ideal for 1/72, 1/48 and possibly even 1/32 scale figures....
That larger figures require the much more elaborate techniques....Well, maybe they will work on my 1/35 scale I'll try it ....
Hmmmmm..Says here, that acrylic's dry to quickly...
I'll have to add some Createx Acrylics airbrush Medium so they won't...
Okay! Just thinking out loud...Sorry......"RC"

i've also heard that lacquer thinner is the same as mineral spirits. in any event, I use thinner with artists oils for washes, and it works great. as mentioned already, if you use acrylic paints on the model, the thinner won't take off the acrylic. it also helps to put a gloss coat over the model/figure first. if you use a wash over a flat coat, any excess wash is more dificult to remove, since the flat coat seems to "soak" up the wash in areas other than recesses and creases. with a gloss coat, it is easier for the wash to use capillary action and flow into the recesses and creases.

Okay after the acrylic's use Future then the wash...
"Thank you!!"

Still need to know "Whats Mineral Spirits though?!"...

That Author who wrote: "Easy aircraft figures" in FSM's July 2005 issue Stated using rubbing alcohol to thin, so maye thats Mineral Spirits!...

He also stated: "Use enamel paint to paint skin!"...He says: "It is important to use 'only' enamel paints for the skin areas...
"They have a more realistic sheen and allow for the subtle blending that is a critical part of the process...To use Acrylics for the rest of the figure."...

He also states:.... "A quick way to fill seams on figures is to slightly overfill them with White putty, while the putty is still wet, use a cotton swab dipped in Cutex nail polish remover to remove the excess putty...Do not use the Acetone free formula...It won't work...The cotton swab should be damp, not sopping. Repeat with fresh cotton swabs as necessary to remove any excess putty...

This technique eliminates the need for sanding!"...

"RC"

hey lacquer thinner is NOT mineral turps.... lacquer thinner is alot 'hotter' and will melt plastic, while mineral turps will not
methylated spirits is denatured alcohol
as for mineral spirits, i think u may have gotten the names mixed up, coz i know ive done the same :)
mineral turps is also called white spirits or turpentine.

also, im pretty sure what i said above is correct, but if its not, someone plz correct me!!

All those things have different labels in the home improvement store, so i guess you could read the back of the can... i use mineral spirits to clean my brushes

small discovery here, i saw a can labeled mineral spirits in that "how to use an airbrush" book. the author didn't say more about it in detail. I think it's just a BRAND!!!! that if it thins down oil color which makes it similar to turpentine oil paint thinner or watever that you can get in any hobby and craft store. There were so many brands of that.