How to use decal solvents ??

I use Humbrol decalfix, very easy stuff to work with, and I find it works well.
Dip your decal in water, set aside for a moment, then apply the decalfix to the model with an old paintbrush. When the decal is ready, apply it as normal, when you're happy with the position use a soft cotton cloth and gently roll/press onto it.
This will squeeze excess liquid from under it, and help to make it conform to panel lines under it. Then simply leave to dry.
If you have any problems, simply apply water and start again.
Any fluff from the material can be removed with saliva, it also helps decals slide around much better than water!

Oh yes, one more thing, certain manufacturers decals don't like softeners, and it can vary from kit to kit, so try a test piece first.

Decal solvents are invaluable. Not only will they help set your decals into place without slipping, they help them to lay down flat with a minimum of bubbles. Best of all, they allow the decals to contour to complex curves (with practice and patience).
I use Microscale Industries' MicroSet (the blue bottle) and MicroSol (the red bottle). They both soften the decals, but work in very different ways.

MicroSet should be brushed onto the area where you want to lay the decal. It will help the decal to stick in place (you can still adjust the placement, tho'), and should also be applied to the decal after placement to set the decal into place. It does just what the name implies: it helps to set the decal in place and softens it just enough to allow it to lay onto the area nice and flat.

MicroSol can be used to remove decals, but is also used to soften the decals to allow forming them to curves. It should only be applied after the decal has thoroughly dried. Be very careful using MicroSol, as it is intended to soften the decal, and with rough handling the decal can break into pieces. Once the decal has dried (even if it hasn't formed to the surface perfectly), gently brush on the MicroSol until the entire decal is wet, then form it to the surface, carefully brushing out any bubbles or wrinkles. Then let it sit!! The decal may wrinkle and look as though you've ruined it, but it will flatten and smooth out as it dries. I've had success with it on complex surfaces that seemed impossible to decal, but it can take patience and several graduated applications. For best results, allow each to dry overnight, or use a food dehydrater to completely dry the decals before the next procedure.

After application of either, you can remove any excess or overwash with a wet brush. They clean up with water, but be sure to clean your brushes thoroughly to remove all the solution.

Apply your clear coat as usual to ensure permanent adhesion.

Good luck, and happy hunting!

Glenn

Thank you for handy informations. I still have one more question. Before apply decals, which surface will give the best result, glossy or matt ??

Thank you :D

In short - allways GLOSS.

The reason for this is that you are trying to eliminate air under the decals (silvering) and get good adhesion.

If you were to look under a microscope at the surface of a matt finish you would see that it is rough - meaning that there are high and low "granulated" parts all over the surface.

The low parts would continue to hold air, and that causes the silvering.

So always use gloss, either a varnish or Future (as I always do nowadays). When you have completed the decalling CAREFULLY wash the model to remove any decal solvent, then apply another gloss coat or two if needed, followed by an apllication of the "sheen" you need for the final finish - ie matt, silk or gloss.

Hope this helps some.

"Work is the curse of the drinking classes"

Future floor polish is the best surface I have found to apply decals over and is super easy to apply. I find that the only decal solvent I ever need is microsol. It along with some well placed cuts will make a decal conform to the tightest curves (airliner noses, fuel tanks on a/c). Microsol can even make a decal lay perfect on top of a rivet. It is great stuff, but I have a suspicion it is just white vinegar. It smell exactly the same and I have used vinegar with much the same effect on decals.

Step 1:

Find a brush.

Next installment... Step 2.

I'm just foolin', guys...


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