Blasted canopies

on a futured canopy turpenoid (turpentine subsitute) works well to remove the goo... I had been fighting goo with the BMF method but figured it out recently that it not only dissolved the gum but didn't touch the futured canopy...

I use Tamiya tape cut into very thin strips, about 1/16”. Long, one piece strips from side to side and front to back letting it over lap. A sharp #10 blade, edge against the top piece of tape and a gentle rocking cut just through the tape and pick out the tiny pieces to “open” the frame work. I then fill in the glass panels with Micro Mask, the blue stuff that can be cut when dry, from Microscale. The Tamiya tape is nice and thin for clean lines. Really tight curves like on the front windscreen are done same way but using 1/16” crepe tape. Found in Staples etc, made by ChartPak (sp?) and use for … well… charts. I have had this roll for ages and ages so I am not even sure if it still made. The tape is paper but thick so watch for paint build up at the edges but I have gotten 1/8” radius curves no problem. It is also stickier and may leave a residue, while the Tamiya and Micro Mask will not. If there is some I use regular Scotch Transparent tape to pull off the goop. You don’t have to press it down hard at all…. Just get it stuck on the goop and off it comes. Had all this on the P-40 canopy for about a week or so and no problems. OH YEAH… all of this is after Future that has cured for 2 days.

I used tamiya tape on my F4U canopy and them brushed on Future. After about a week of leaving the tape on, it left behind what appears to be residue. I've tried to remove it with a Q-tip dipped in alcohol. It doesn't appear to be removing it completely and it seems to fog the canopy. I'm hoping that spraying Future on it will solve these problems. I think I may have ridges from where I brushed on the Future a little thick and it built up between the tape edges. I hope I can fix this because the frames look great, the best "I've" ever done.

QUOTE: Originally posted by Harry_1983 I would love to use tamiya tape for my canopies but i have found on previous models that it is too low tack and slips about as I am trying to score it along the panel line, also I tend to find I end up scoring the canopy itself.

When I mask with Tamiya tape I use small strips cut off the model and then positioned on the canopy, I don't try to cut the glazed area as a single piece. Any remaining areas are either filled in with more tape pieces or maskol. This works a treat but can be time consuming. Using this system I haven't had problems with residue even when leaving the mask in situ for weeks at a time.
Patience be with you my friend!

TJ...be good now...I was referring to the B1....

Lol... he said you have a big bone!

Thanks RadMax, appreciate the help, sorry for the stupid question. Nice puppy-dog and nice size Rockwell bomber...massive

regards

Gb

bare metal foil come from the hobby shop. it has adhesive on one side, and is pretty expensive

Hi all, please excuse the seemingly stupid question, but I read in one of Paul Boyer's books that he uses the bare metal tecnique to mask canopies. bare-metal foil is not the aluminun foil that our sweet better halves use in the kitchen, now is it? I have tried with it, but it didn't stick to the canopy at all, eventually got me frustrated and used masking tape.

thanks
GB

that is a great looking canopy Steve. I also use Tamiya tape for masking. it really is handy.

Harry_1983, I recommend Goo Gone as mentioned earlier. it will take off the residue from your canopy w/out harming it. just be sure to rinse off the Goo Gone afterwards.

I masked this F-84 canopy with no precut masks, no liquid masks, nothing except Tamiya tape. First I painted the longways frames, then the crossways. Took about thirty minutes. This is a real green house canopy and it was a bear. I just can't understand what all the fuss is about. It seems like the more fancy materials folks use, it just translates into more work later removing residue and overspray. KISS principle abounds here for me guys.


LOL

Steve

I would'nt recommend using alchohol on futured canopies as I've seen it cloud up the canopy to the point that I had to apply amonia to clear it back up.

That's brilliant, thanks for all your great advice.

I have used Tamiya acrylics (you can't beat them) for the painting of the canopy frames so although I would try alcahol for removing of the residue, I'm scared it would ruin my ever improving frames!

I would love to use tamiya tape for my canopies but i have found on previous models that it is too low tack and slips about as I am trying to score it along the panel line, also I tend to find I end up scoring the canopy itself.

I will try it with a new blade and try not to apply too much pressure, also the application of the magic elixir (future) prior to masking is another string to my canopy bow.

Thank you all for helping me improve my skills & my hobby.

One suggestion I would add is to lightly cut along the tape/mask edges with a new blade before removing. This will leave a very clean farming line.

QUOTE: Originally posted by mikeiw Future your canopy as the others have said, but make sure you leave it to cure for 24-48 hours before masking it up. The Tamiya tape is excellent for no-residue lifting, but a lot of people also use bareMetal foil, which you just rub down all over the canopy, then cut with a sharp No.11 blade, and lift the framing pieces off. Gently buff the foil back down, and give it a light coat of future. This will stop any colored paint from seeping under the foil. After another 24-48 hours, you can then overspray with the cockpit interior color first, then the exerior color, so that from inside, you can still see the interior color. As soon as you've finished your last bit of spraying/weathing/whatever, put a cocktail stick under a corner & remove it carefully with tweezers. Any residue from most tapes/foils can be removed with a cotton swab dipped in a little Isopropyl alochol, but as the others said, avoid getting it on the paint - especially acrylic.

Roger that.

I would sure echo the comments on using Tamiya tape it's great stuff for canopies. I just used Eduard express masks for the first time to mask wheels on the EIII and wasn't overly impressed. Lots of residue that formed strings on removal and I removed the masks within 1 hour of finishing spraying.

Future your canopy as the others have said, but make sure you leave it to cure for 24-48 hours before masking it up. The Tamiya tape is excellent for no-residue lifting, but a lot of people also use bareMetal foil, which you just rub down all over the canopy, then cut with a sharp No.11 blade, and lift the framing pieces off. Gently buff the foil back down, and give it a light coat of future. This will stop any colored paint from seeping under the foil.

After another 24-48 hours, you can then overspray with the cockpit interior color first, then the exerior color, so that from inside, you can still see the interior color. As soon as you've finished your last bit of spraying/weathing/whatever, put a cocktail stick under a corner & remove it carefully with tweezers.

Any residue from most tapes/foils can be removed with a cotton swab dipped in a little Isopropyl alochol, but as the others said, avoid getting it on the paint - especially acrylic.

I sure agree with Rick. Removing the tape as soon as the paint has set makes all the difference. Leaving it on longer can create problems.

Dean

Use a low tac tape & remove it ASAP. If there is some residue, GOO GONE will remove it. So will Naptha ( Lighter fluid ), but use it sparingly as it can also lift some paints.

Regards, Rick

Dipping in Future before painting will definitely help. You can try using a fresh tape and press it down and quickly take it off to remove the residual. Have you tried Tamiya tape? it doesn't seem to leave any residual behind.