IP Help-Always was a weak area for me

For me it varies from one model to the next. I just use what works best out of the options provided in the kit. This panel for the rear of the F-4 I did last year is hand painted:


whereas this one for the A-10 I'm doing now:

came with an acetate print of the instruments that is sandwiched between two pieces of resin that form the panel itself. I did have to cut out the individual instruments to get them to line up right.

If decals are used I think that there should be something on the panel to give it depth or it will look pretty bland. What I woudl do is to tape a piece of sandpaper to a hard surface and start sanding on the back of the panel. When the individual instruments are sanded through you will have holes where each instrument goes. Put the decal on a piece of white styrene and glue that to the back of the panel. That's how my A-10 panel was done and it worked out quite well.

I usually hand paint, first the base color, then the detail work. I also use dry brushing and washing to create highlights and shadows. Last is the gloss (Future) on the dails for glass effect.

Something I've found provides a neat effect when doing gauges...

Paint your panel whatever the base color is...flat black, gray, whatever...then drybrush white over the instrument bezels to outline the increment marks and needles, etc. Then, with a very fine brush, apply a drop of India ink to the gauge face, just enough to fill the recess without covering the raised details. Let it dry and settle, then a drop of Future over the top. Once that's done, I'll drybrush some dark silver (Floquil Old Silver is my favorite) around the edges of the bezel. Works like a champ for me. The India ink seems to have the blackest finish I've ever seen with the proper sheen.

Jeff

Thanks for the responses. I agree that it will probably depend on the situation and will try them all… in time. MusicCity… very nice panels indeed.

I decided to take a shot at using the decal, the kit panel, 1/48 P-40N, and Micro-Sol out the wazoo, then a soft stiff brush to push thing down over the detail. Figured I could always soak it off and try paint. Two pieces, a couple of relief cuts were needed, more really since you can see thing got a little out of whack at the bottom. You can barely notice that when it is not all big in a photo. Some touch up with flat black, a flat clear coat and drop of future on the dial faces.

Yep, you can get away with this trick only for 1/72 and 1/48 models, but not for larger scales. I usually get third party cockpit details, although not for every aircraft I build, too expensive. I also read and tried to use a drop of clear gloss varnish to the instruments dials to simulate the lenses, which works pretty well. The trick of drilling the faces and then insert the decals at the back is good also

cheers