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need some fading help..

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  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: BOONEVILLE, MISSISSIPPI
need some fading help..
Posted by ipms40049 on Wednesday, June 29, 2005 3:46 AM
how do i make paint look really really faded? like its been sitting in the desert sun for years. And also the decals, how would I achieve that look for them?
Pat Hensley Booneville, Ms "Thank you for being here and playing nice"...please do not drag sand outside the box ! CURRENT BUILD(s) Revell 1/72 U Boat VII C Tamiya Willys Jeep - for 2010 Nats Bronco's Staghound -for 2010 Nats Dragons M16 Multi gun carriage - for the 2020 Nats. LOL
  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Utereg
Posted by Borg R3-MC0 on Wednesday, June 29, 2005 4:14 AM
You could add few drops of a light color to you flat coat.
The color that you use depends on the color of the model.

Antoher option is dusting the model with pastels. Again, the color of the pastel depends on the color of the model. Downside of pastels is that you can get fingerprints when handeling the model.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: NYC, USA
Posted by waikong on Wednesday, June 29, 2005 12:40 PM
diluted Tamiya Buff will also work, so make sure its diluted enough and you test the reults first. This is assuming you are using an Airbrush.
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: The flat lands of the Southeast
Posted by styrene on Wednesday, June 29, 2005 3:34 PM
There are a couple keys to getting a good faded paint look. I primarily do armor, but I think this can apply in a lot of circumstances:
1. Spray a very dark primer. I spray all my armor pieces a solid flat black.
2. Spray on the top coat, but allow the black to show through--slightly. I do this by "dotting-in" the color--kind of like spraying overlapping polka dots. It takes time to do this right, but when done, your paint already has a mottled and faded look to it.
3. Put a little white in your base coat, mix thoroughly, and start over with the overlapping dots, except this time concentrate your efforts on side panels and other horizontal surfaces that would receive continued exposure to sun, wind, rain, etc. I try to focus on the centers of panels; leave the edges darker--don't spray your lightened base coat there.
4. Do a dark wash around all raised detail after putting down a gloss coat. This will keep the wash from "bleeding" into surrounding paint--unless that's the effect you want.
5. Start drybrushing using an even lighter shade of your basecoat (add more white), and then end up with an even lighter color. I like colors like radome tan, and armor sand.

Try it, and watch the detail "come alive"! Hope this helps you some...

Gip Winecoff

1882: "God is dead"--F. Nietzsche

1900: "Nietzsche is dead"--God

  • Member since
    June 2004
  • From: coastal Maine
Posted by clfesmire on Thursday, June 30, 2005 6:11 AM
If you spray the top of the model with plain old denatured alcohol, it will prematurely fade and flatten at the same time. You may also use a fine powder (pastel chalks work well but I have used regular foot powder on this) Please keep in mind that this is a 1/87 scale model so my details pale in comparison to many you see here.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/stryper50/detail?.dir=4cc7&.dnm=390a.jpg&.src=ph
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