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Filling gaps and seams

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  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: A Spartan in the Wolverine State
Posted by rjkplasticmod on Friday, July 15, 2005 10:01 AM
I use the same technique quite often. It usually works well, especially if there is a gap to be filled, but I prefer to use Zap-A-Gap CA for most seam filling.

Regards, Rick
RICK At My Age, I've Seen It All, Done It All, But I Don't Remember It All...
  • Member since
    February 2003
Posted by mass tactical on Thursday, July 14, 2005 10:38 AM
I like this technique but I use Testor's Plastic Cement, the kind that comes in a bottle with brush. Takes a little while longer to cure than Tenax but I believe it tends to melt the sprue somewhat better.

Mike M
  • Member since
    May 2004
  • From: Chester, UK
Posted by mikeiw on Tuesday, July 12, 2005 6:47 AM
Interesting technique. Does Tenax cure faster than the other liquid cements around? The one I use regularly doesn't seem to cure in "a few minutes", but would be ready to sand in an hour or so - particularly if I'd got wet styrene like I imagine you'd end up with here. I'll definitely give it a try next time I'm seam filling, as it sounds like it'll give a good strong joint.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Filling gaps and seams
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, July 12, 2005 4:48 AM
Hello folks. I'd like to share with all of you a seam & gap filling technique that I have been using for many years. The items you need are a piece of sprue, a bottle of Tenax or Proweld, a Touch-N-Flow applicator, sprue nippers and a candle. (and of course the model kit you're working on). The process is quite simple and works very well.

First stretch the sprue to any length. You notice that when you take the sprue away from the heat, the sprue cools as you stretch it. It also is very thin at the center and wider towards the ends.

Next run the sprue along the gap/seam you are going to fill until it fits snugly in the gap or seam.
Now cut the sprue leaving it in the seam/gap.
Now using the Touch-N-Flow applicator, (I use the applicator because it offers better control of the release of the Tenax or Proweld onto the model), apply the small drops along the seam. The Tenax/Proweld produces a solid melting(welding) of the plastic so there is no shrinkage or cracking of the joint, like you'd sometimes see with putty's.
Most of the time when I use this technique, it would require little to no sanding, so the surface detail is hardly ever damaged. If it does need sanding, just wait a few minutes for the joint to completely cure, then wet sand the area.
I've used this technique on seams/gaps of all sizes and I rarely use putty anymore. Now I don't know if anyone else has been doing this but when ever I have mentioned it and demonstrated it to friends and club members, their eyes nearly pop out of their heads at how well it works. It saves time on building and cuts down on the cost of putty because the sprue is already in the kit! I hope this helps you folks out with your projects.
Chris Cool [8D]
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