Instrument panels

Digital photo, no negative. Believe it or not it's a cat hair. My basement is full of them and my compressor probably gets as much use blowing cat hair off of stuff as it does blowing an airbrush.

Scott: is that a hair across the cockpit? Or did you scratch the negative? LOL

QUOTE: That cockpit for the A 10 that you built a marvel of fine detail, I am speechless. What kind of brushes allow you to get that tight.

Sorry, I just happened to notice your post.

I use Royal SG250 "Soft Grip" 20/0 brushes. The size nomenclature varies from one manufacturer to another, but the ones I use come from Michaels Art Supply. Here is a link that shows them:
http://www.royalbrush.com/ver3/brush/soft/lg_gold/round.htm

That photo is much enlarged. The bristles are only about 1/4" long, but the important thing is that they come to a very sharp point. They are also quite durable and the two that I have are about 18 months old and have been used a lot during that time. They are also rather inexpensive; I think I paid about $3 for mine.

I'm a little late jumping in on the subject but as someone had recommended a punch set earlier I thought I'd throw in this link:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47734

A good set for a LOT less than Waldron's offering.

That cockpit for the A 10 that you built a marvel of fine detail, I am speechless. What kind of brushes allow you to get that tight.
bravo, salute

If you plan to do very much of this, you might consider purchasing a Waldron punch set. It's not that easy to drill thru a thin sheet of plastic without tearing it, plus it's hard to drill a perfectly straight line of holes in miniature by hand.
Expensive? Yes they're expensive, but like any good tool, use it and treat it with care and it will last you for years.

I've done it too (once), and it worked quite well. In fact, it looked better than many kit Instrument Panels I've done--mainly because I'm not the best at painting those small dials. Just add a drop or so of Krystal Klear or equivalent to give the impression of the glass on the dials once you're done.

In my case, I scratchbuilt the IP for Monogram's P-40B. The kit IP is incorrect for that version of the P-40, and at the time there was no aftermarket available.

Mark

I've done it and it works quite well. I didn't scratch-build it as you intend to do but several Tamiya kits come that way. This photograph is of the Cutting Edge cockpit in my A-10 and was done that way. The instrument faces were printed in black on clear acetate. I painted the backing piece white and then used Future to hold the instruments in place on it. If you look closely in the photograph you can see the seam between the two pieces of the panel along the top.