How to use Tenax7R

I really like Tenax. I find it better that Testors liquid glue. I use the disposable micro brushes to apply small amount on parts. One some parts I trying to glue the seam which is not seen. That way if excess plastic squeezes out it won't be seen. On other obvious pieces, the excess plastic is easily filed or scrapped off.

Scott

I have used this stuff for a while now and I love it. Keep using it and in the long run I think you will begin to like it to.

Thad

I just started using this stuff. It works great. I use a #0 fine paintbush and press the pieces together. I then apply the glue whilethe piece is held vertical. The gravity pulls down the Tenax and Allows the parts to be more efficently held together.

After I apply the glue and squeeze the seam together, I sometimes move back from the seam and squeeze the part to see if the seam will open, because the glue didn't flow well. If it opens, I add a little more Tenex.

I use a capillary glue pen with my Tenax... it is a glass tube with a fine metal (blunt) needle on the end... you put it in the Tenax upside down with the needle up... wait for pressure to fill the end of it then turn it around and let the liquid flow to the tip... like was said, with a fine gap between the pieces put the glue between them and hold them until bonded (about 10 secs or so), the razor blade trick works GREAT, here's a how to with pics: http://www.accurate-miniatures.com/builds/sbd/sbdbuild05.shtml (That's a great model by the way... a nice build with good detail! if you're looking for a satisfying build you'll like it!)

With proper prefitting and sanding if necessary of pieces you can come out of gluing the body with only light sanding necessary...

I still use the thick cement for things like small pieces (control sticks etc...) and pieces I need to have time to position right before drying.. all my long seams get Tanax or Ambroids though!

I use it as my primary glue also. For really small pieces I'll load a brush and place a small drop of the glue onto the largest of the two pieces then immediately place the smaller piece. Sometimes I may have to come back once an initial tack has been made and brush on a little more glue. The Pro-Weld is also very good.

Thanks guys. I sort of had a good idea on how to use, but your ideas have helped a lot more. I'll just have to practice and get used to this new glue.

i use Tenax all the time for main assembly, what i do is dry fit till i am satisfied, then when i start gluing(sp?), fuselage, wing halves and such, i use a razor blade between the parts to seperate and use a drafting pen to apply glue. capillary attraction will draw the glue along the seam then when glue gets close to the razor blade i just slide razor blade along seam and repeat applying glue. as i move blade along seam, the seam will close and a small bead of dissolved plastic oozes out. then prep for painting, sanding, filling with putty if necessary.

HTH

I use Tenax 7R and Ambroid Pro-Weld as my main construction glue. My method is to hold the parts together such that you can see hairline of "black" between the parts. Then I touch a brush full of the glue to the joint. Capillary action draws it along the joint. Wait a few seconds and then sqeeze together firmly. You'll now see liquid plastic ooze out of the joint. The key is to not hold the parts together too frimly while applying the glue because otherwise you won't get enough into the joint. When you touch the brush to the joint, capillary actio should draw it along for about an inch. Also, I'd toss the brush that comes with glue bottle and use something like the chisel tip brush available from Testor's. It's cheap, lasts forever and does a better job. Hope this helps.

Hi Mike,

I use Tenax on larger assemblies e.g. fuselage halves. The parts need to fit closely to begin with, so dry-fit and correct if necessary. Hold the two parts together firmly and apply a small amount of Tenax with a fine brush, to one spot on the seamline. Reapply every 1-2 centimeters or so as needed. You can sometimes see a tiny bead of melted plastic get pushed out of the joint as you maintain pressure for 10 sec or so during drying.

This is strong stuff, as you'll find out if you spill some on the surface itself :) Use eye protection and good ventilation.

For smaller parts, I prefer the old standby Testor's glue, as it can be awkward to hold small parts together.