Photo etched parts

I use the toothpick placement method as well for my 1/700 scale ship models, but I have had pretty good luck using a readily-available, completely organic adhesive on the end of said toothpick - good old spit. It holds lightweight PE parts very well and I have never had a problem with the part releasing once I touch it to the superglue at the chosen mounting location.

One thing ... make SURE the toothpick you're using has clean ends, which have not been used to stir paint, clean out your ears, dislodge stubborn parts, etc., because sooner or later, you will unthinkingly lick the end ...

stephencraig wrote:

Styrene, I'm starting the Hasegawa 109 G-6 and want to use the Eduard Color Etch dashboard on it.  Any suggestions on how to glue the instrument bezels on it without getting CA dripped everywhere?  Bear in mind the bezels, even in 1/32 scale, are very small.  I was thinking maybe positioning the bezels, then using Future applied to the instrument face (since I would do this for the glass effect anyway).  My thinking is as the "well" fills in with Future, it will hold the bezel also, and hopefully I won't get it outside on the surface of the dashboard.  The Color Etch dashboard generally has 3 layers: the instrument face (back) layer, the dashboard layer with the instrument holes in it, and the bezels. Any other ideas?

For applying the glue in this situation I puddle a small quantity of CA onto a "Post-It" note. I then transfer some of this glue with either a toothpick or pin to the area where the photoetch piece is going to be applied. I then use another toothpick with the SMALLEST piece of blue tac that will hold the bezel to place the photoetch piece onto the glue. If the piece of blu tac is too large the photoetch will not detatch. Hope that helps.

Robert,

If I'm not mistaken, the U-Boat you described is a 1/72 scale TypeVII by Amati. It is a beauty. It will build into a masterpiece. Unfortunatey, I can't afford the high price tag it carries, so I settled for the 1/72 scale Type VII from Revell. It also builds into a very nice model. I too have been building for 40+ years and just recently started using all these 'modern' extras that really add detail.

Styrene,

I'm starting the Hasegawa 109 G-6 and want to use the Eduard Color Etch dashboard on it.  Any suggestions on how to glue the instrument bezels on it without getting CA dripped everywhere?  Bear in mind the bezels, even in 1/32 scale, are very small.  I was thinking maybe positioning the bezels, then using Future applied to the instrument face (since I would do this for the glass effect anyway).  My thinking is as the "well" fills in with Future, it will hold the bezel also, and hopefully I won't get it outside on the surface of the dashboard.  The Color Etch dashboard generally has 3 layers: the instrument face (back) layer, the dashboard layer with the instrument holes in it, and the bezels.

Any other ideas?

Hi Robgert,

Try the following link. If does not take you directly to the photoetched tutorials, look for it in the tools & tips menu.

http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/

Welcome
GG

Welcome to the Forum Robert!

Thanks,I can use all the tips & help & Knowledge that ican get

You can use CA, or Testors Cement for Wood and Metal(green tube) which dries harder and won't fog.

THANKS FOR THE TIPS.I CAN USE ALL THE HELP THAT I CAN GET.I EVEN BOUGHT A GERMANWW!!SUBMARINE FROM A COMPANY IN ITALY!1 iiT IS MUSEUMQUALITY!1.& hAS 20%OF THE PARTS IN PHOTO ETECED METAL.Ii BOUGHT A CERTAIN SMALL VISE THAT IS USED FOR BENDING & CUTING THR PHOTO eTCDED PARTS!! i i DIDN;T KNOW THAT IT WOULD HELP TO USE A SMALL TORCH TO MAHE IT EAEIER TO BEND THE PHOTO ETXHED pARTS! aGAIN,MANY THANKS.i HAVENT STARTED THAT MODEL AS YET.i HAVE BUILT THREE TAMIYA 1/16" SCALE RC TANKS.& I ALSO LIKE TO BUILD PLASTIS WAR SHIPS,& mILITARY ARMOUR.eITHER 1/16' SCALE OR 1/25" SV-VALE MODELS.I HAVE BEEN BUILDING MODELS MOR ABOUT 4O YEARS,BUT ONLY RECENTLY DID I GET A AIR PRUSH,& STARTED ON LEARNING ON HOW TO USE IT.aGAIN MY NAME IS rOBERT W Cothran 213 edinburgh Ave, Monterey Calif,USA 93949.My Home phone No# is (831)649-152 & my e mail is bobddr@sbcglobal.net.I will except collect phone calls for model help tips,tricks,Etc.I am 66 years of ge & your responce meant a lot to me!!.I haven/t worked to much lately on the 1/16"tamiya rc king Tiger tank recently,because my wife is quite I'll with Cancer & Emphesmeya,& again ,thank you for taking the time to answer my question on using the photo etched Parts.BOB

QUOTE: Originally posted by styrene Hi, Robert and welcome to the forum! My take on PE: 1. Take the fret of PE parts and place it on a FIRM surface. I like to use a metal plate... 2. Using a good chisel-tip X-acto blade, or other suitable alternative, separate the part from the fret. You might want to consider taping the part down, or using firm finger pressure to prevent launching the part as it is cut from its mount. 3. Once cut, use some sandpaper or a file to remove the excess fret material from the part. 4. If the part needs to be bent or shaped, first heat it briefly until it glows red (just a couple seconds or it will melt!!). This anneals the part, and makes it easier to bend. Using a razor blade or other straight edge, place it along the bend line and use another razor blade to slip under the part to be bent, and bend upwards until the correct angle is reached. For circular parts, they can be formed around wooden dowels, nails, etc. 5. Once shaped, position the part on the model to ensure a good fit. Some PE parts require you to remove pre-existing plastic parts first. 6. Consideration should be given to removing paint prior to attaching PE. However, if the part is small and will not support significant weight, it can be attached directly to painted surfaces. 7. Use cyanoacrylate to glue the part to the model. I like to use Zap-a-Gap, personally, as the super glue of choice. Some modelers will use white glue to pre-position or even final glue a part. 8. Once applied and in place, you can paint as you choose. If you are going to apply a gloss paint to the piece, prime first... These are some basics. Hope this helps. Gip Winecoff

Hi, Robert and welcome to the forum!
My take on PE:
1. Take the fret of PE parts and place it on a FIRM surface. I like to use a metal plate...
2. Using a good chisel-tip X-acto blade, or other suitable alternative, separate the part from the fret. You might want to consider taping the part down, or using firm finger pressure to prevent launching the part as it is cut from its mount.
3. Once cut, use some sandpaper or a file to remove the excess fret material from the part.
4. If the part needs to be bent or shaped, first heat it briefly until it glows red (just a couple seconds or it will melt!!). This anneals the part, and makes it easier to bend. Using a razor blade or other straight edge, place it along the bend line and use another razor blade to slip under the part to be bent, and bend upwards until the correct angle is reached. For circular parts, they can be formed around wooden dowels, nails, etc.
5. Once shaped, position the part on the model to ensure a good fit. Some PE parts require you to remove pre-existing plastic parts first.
6. Consideration should be given to removing paint prior to attaching PE. However, if the part is small and will not support significant weight, it can be attached directly to painted surfaces.
7. Use cyanoacrylate to glue the part to the model. I like to use Zap-a-Gap, personally, as the super glue of choice. Some modelers will use white glue to pre-position or even final glue a part.
8. Once applied and in place, you can paint as you choose. If you are going to apply a gloss paint to the piece, prime first...

These are some basics. Hope this helps.
Gip Winecoff