Putty: anyone use 3M Acryl Blue, Red or Super Red??

denniscermak wrote:

Regarding Acryl Blue.  This great stuff is the only filler that i use. For seams or small gaps, minor depressions, pinholes etc you can thin with 70% denatured alcohol which depending on the amount used will make it almost into a cream which you can Paint onto the area needing to be filled. Just put some Acryl Blue in one of those epoxy mixing cups add some alcohol and stir up to the cosistency you want then pour out the left over alcohol. It does not effect the surrounding plastic. For large depressions you may want to apply in layers after each layer is throughly dry and wet sanded. The stuff feather sands just beautiful. After you get the area looking just the way you want just prime ( a must ) and paint. Blue is a little pricey at the automotive paint store but the tube is so big it lasts forever and will do many, many, many kits

i use bondo micro filler in the tube. it works very similar at much less cost and greater availability.

No one has mentioned Perfect Plastic Putty by Deluxe. It is water based and very easy to use and works well with smal scratches to big gaps. I used it to fill a turret opening on a B-29 Fortress to Silverplate conversion.

Shipwreck

No one has mentioned Perfect Plastic Putty by Deluxe.

Because it didn't exist 10 years ago when the question was asked.

Lucky lads ten years back. Perfect Plastic Putty is.....terrible. If you can afford a new batch for every use - go ahead - I love water based stuff and PPP works well. But it dries in the tube really fast. I've had four batches and have never come close to finishing a tube before it dried up completely - and yes, I had the cap on tight. This stuff goes about $7 a pop, so it's no small matter.

Eric

Hi ;

 I read all the posts with interest .Ever since I owned a body shop in the late seventies I have used 3-M Acryl Blue or Red .Why ? well for one thing thay seem comfortable with any of the spray can primers I use .

 Sure they shrink . But when you get it right it is awesome . Plus it makes you look at that model closer and then you discover spots you didn't see Before primer .It works eithr way , but sticks better that without .Why ? well it is in essence paint . With a thickener added or liquid brewed away .I don't know the exact process ( Probably Proprietary  anyway ) but I can thin it as paint with lacquer thinner and spray it too !

 The thing to remember is it is "Glazing " putty .That means for little dits after all that sanding . Don't ever use it for a thick bruise or blemish . Use melted sprue putty for that !  If you use it to cover thick spots it will take time to gas out . What's it doing during that time ? Shrinking and Cracking !!

 I probably have bought enough ot the stuff to fill a mold and build my own Bass boat ! !Just a side note here . I like the Acryl Blue for model cars specifically

qmiester

For years I've used 3 Ms Spot-N-Glaze red putty which is a laquer based putty. I've tried others (3m Acryl Blue - It dries too fast, Bondo - the surface isn't as fine etc) but have always come back to the Spot-N-Glaze. And it can be thinned to the consitency of paint with laquer thinner.

 

I also use the 3M red.  I have had it for nearly five years, and although half the tube is left, it has hardened in the tube so badly I need to buy a new tube.  I believe I am money ahead versus using the small tubes sold as model putty.  Yeah, the big tubes are expensive, but I am a heavy putty user, and that half tube has done many, many models.  I like the stuff.