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Using Cast a Coat.

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  • Member since
    January 2004
Posted by Ali1kj on Thursday, October 20, 2005 5:37 PM
Oh, one more thing, do not be afraid of using a lot of setting sol (fresh) to keep up the wetness

Enjoy

AJ
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Montreal
Posted by buff on Thursday, October 20, 2005 3:36 PM
Thanks, Alasdair. I'm going to give it another try tonight. I'll be in touch.

On the bench: 1/32 Spit IXc

  • Member since
    January 2004
Posted by Ali1kj on Thursday, October 20, 2005 12:27 PM
to thick like me :)

Think of sand and water,

slightly damp = crumbles
Too wet = All the sand sinks
Slurry = flow

BUT keep the moisture level up to keep the flow, a little "vibration" at the brush tip also helps the "flow". Once you get it it works really easy :)


Let me know

AJ
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Montreal
Posted by buff on Thursday, October 20, 2005 12:02 PM
Thanks for the tips Alasdair. I tried painting on the slurry, but I ended up with nasty lines between the brush strokes and it definitely did not self level. Was it too thick, too thin? I'll try to get a pick up tonight. I did it on a piece of scrap, and I don't think I got rid of it.

On the bench: 1/32 Spit IXc

  • Member since
    January 2004
Posted by Ali1kj on Thursday, October 20, 2005 4:30 AM
HI as we make it I might be able to help here :)

So you have found one of the biggest advantages of the system !! you can remove it WITHOUT wrecking the model. now IF you had do it with a filler ? :( :)

1st you must clean the modes surface with detergent or use a fiberglass scratch pen , this to stop the liquid from puddeling , which is what you are getting where it builds up to thick.

2nd It helps to make a slurry from the pink Setting-Sol and the powder, Paint that on BUT keep it wet so it flows with a little vibration at the brush tip IT WILL self level !....Like concrete or wet sand at the beach. This can be very thin or thick ...as you wish. You can re-wet this surface after 2 hours with the Setting-Sol neat, this can then be dusted if you wish for the really rough surface (or as concrete walls for example)
You can then build up over that when it is dry (2 hours depending on temp) and dust some more down on it for a VERY rough surface, Great for mixed textures al is often found on Russian turrets,
I use it ONLY as a slurry now for cast surfaces. Normally in one thin and then one thick slurry application.

IF you dust it (AND for Anti-Slip)
Always apply the powder with the model at an angle (about 65/45deg) so the powder flows/falls over the surface rather than biulds up (which is NOT what you want :) as you are finding.

This has had a dark wash applied so you can see better BTW

[img.nr] http://smallshopeu.com/KVII%20%201940%20pics/Untitled-13.jpg[/img.nr]
from here
http://smallshopeu.com/photo__T_44.htm

Any more help just ask away

Alasdair
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Montreal
Using Cast a Coat.
Posted by buff on Wednesday, October 19, 2005 4:51 PM
I'm using this stuff for the first time. I want to get a cast texture. So far I'm having a really tough time getting the powder down cleanly. I've tried tapping it off a brush, but it still ends up too thick, and too scattered. Does anybody have any tips? My other question deals with getting the pink solution on. The instructions say to do small areas at a time to keep it from drying out, and they also say to do entire areas at once to avoid getting build up lines between applications. Has anybody managed to square the circle on this one?
Thanks

On the bench: 1/32 Spit IXc

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