What are the basics to wheathering model tanks

Hey bigshot,
Your gonna really make me think now aren't ya.
Well lets see for one, any kind of reference books, pictures and the like are the most important part. Well at least for me because it helps me get a picture of how I want my subject(s)to turn out.
By using the reference books, it will be able to help you in the add of paint schemes, weathering(every day use) storage of equipment and the surroundings.(make sense??)
For the weathering you can use pastel chalk(use a brand new number 11 blade to scrap the chalk into chalk dust)
From there use a brush to start the weathering process in the normal areas(things that move,open, roll, lift, oil stains, exhaust stains,chips.... ect)
You can also do a "smudge was" which helps to hi-light the panel lines(anything that is recessed) When I use this method I tend to mix water based paint w/ distilled water. The ratio of paint to distilled water is up to you my friend. Oil paints are good as well but I'm not too formilar with them. But from what I have seen they work and look good.
In camoing your 72d tanks, well thats not really my bag.
I think either Shermanfreak or renarts would be a good one to ask.
What would I know, I'm just a "Fly Boy". At any rate there a lot of talented guys/gals here that will be more than willing to help out a fellow modeler.
Flaps up, Mike

You ask about 2 distinctly different things here, camouflage and weathering.

Camo is the scheme that the vehicle is painted in and depends entirely on what vehicle, where it was and when it was used. So unless you narrow that part of the question down it's just a little too broad.

Weathering is another story all together. It is the after effects of what the vehicle has been exposed to. Wind, rain, oil / fuel spills, mud, dust, and scratches on the surface of the vehicle are just a few things to consider when weathering.

Some of the basic techniques used in weathering are washes, dry brushing, graphite and pastels. Each of these techniques are well described throughout the forums, do a search on each one and you'll find tons of info. But the first thing you need to do is ask yourself just what your vehicle has possibly been through and what you're trying to achieve with it. What degree of weathering do you want to do? Has the vehicle been rooting through the mud or was it used in the desert? Just rolled out of the factory or been through 2 years of war? All of these factors come into play.

Narrow your field down a little bit and we'll be able to give a more detailed reply and don't forget to use the search function.

i want to weather my tanks so they look like they've been thru combat in the desert perhaps some shell holes

also basic weatherng for european theatre and the pacific theatre of operations

Washes - using a small amount of paint (usually a shade or two darker than the base coat) mixed with thinner. This is applied to the model and is allowed to flow into the cracks and crevices giving depth to the kit.

Drybrushing - load your paintbrush with paint then remove most of the paint by scrubbing it out on a piece of cardboard. Then using a scrubbing action, apply small amounts of the paint to the model. This method highlights rivets, bolts, etc.
The colour that I usually use for this is steel because I'm trying to show that the paint has worn off and is exposing the metal beneath.

Pastels - these are artists chalks (not wax) that are applied to the model to create dirty and dusty areas as well as toning down the original paint colour. I sand these down to a fine dust and apply them with a ratty old paint brush.

I also will use ground pencil leads to metalize the look of some points on my models.

Tracks - for metal tracks I use a base coat of gun metal acrylic followed by a heavy drybrushing of rust. Then I will drybrush steel to highlight the tracks and finally apply ground pencil lead using my finger to burnish the tracks.

Each and everyone of these techniques and others that will be mentioned in this thread require a certain amount of practice. Try them out on an old kit or a piece of plastic sprue until you feel confident with them. I have seen far too many models that were built great but then ruined by excessive and poor weathering. Practice, practice, practice and remember a little goes a long way.

wht is future and wht does wash do ive so much of it but little about it and its affects how do u add battle damge

Future is an acrylic floor polish that modeller's have discovered makes a great gloss coat. For putting decals on well they should be put on a gloss finish then overcoated with a dullcote to restore the matt finish.

A wash flows into the nooks and crannies of your model giving the appearance of depth. Don't overdo this technique or the final product looks like crap. Personally I think washes are an overrated technique and never use them myself, but this is only my opinion and it is something that you have to make up your mind about yourself.

practice, practice, practice ......... you don't learn these techniques overnight.

How do you dry brush, and how do you do a wash?

See above

what colors should i dry brush with? is aliumin ok

wht colors r good for the chalk and where can get them

Aluminum is fine ..... steel, gun metal, lighter shades of the base colour work good too.

Pastels are available at just about any Arts & Crafts store.

is it accurate to dry brush german,british,american tanks of all theater aliumn
specfically those of northafrica
and can u dry brush more than one color?

as for the darker shdes
for example if i have matt sand tiger wht color goes under it

With drybrushing you are trying to achieve a highlighting on your model. Yes it is quite alright to use various colours. For example I use a heavy drybrush of rust first then a lighter drybrush of steel on my tracks. It doesn't matter what theatre, vehicle, or colour it is, as long as you drybrush with a lighter colour. Some will just drybrush with a lighter shade of colour than the base colour. An example of this would be to add a little white to Olive Drab and then drybrush over the base coat of your O.D. vehicle.

As for the second part of your question, could you explain a little more what you mean.

wht about multicolor drybrushin on top of the tanks
example i have an m-4 sherman can dry brush it like aliumn, then rust or is tht only for tracks

You can drybrush rust on the hull and turret if you wish, but I would restrict it to very small areas. Remember, what you are trying to achieve with drybrushing is a worn look to the paint, don't overdo the rust.

can u dry brush aliumn and rust on the hull of the tank and also what about muzzle flash marks

QUOTE: what about muzzle flash marks

I take it you're refering to the blackening around the end of the gun barrel. This can be easily done with pencil lead. Grind a little lead on some sand paper, dip your finger tip into to it and rub the end of the gun barrel between your fingers.

Just put the tank outside for a month. Let mother nature do the weathering. That's how.

should i dry brush aliumn and rust on the hulls of the tanks

See Above