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any tips on fine micro-painting?

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  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: Chicago, IL
any tips on fine micro-painting?
Posted by jcfay on Friday, November 18, 2005 2:17 PM
Howdy - question for one and all (searched the forum but found nothing to this effect - if there is a previous link please let me know).  I am a new/returning to modeling and I am constantly amazed by the level of detail that is exhibited in this and other forums.  I've started working on 1/48 combat aircraft (love me some planes) and I need some pointers regarding painting (hand, don't own an airbrush yet but I think I gotta get me one soon), detailing with other objects (marker, whatever), weathering cockpit, gear/bomb bays, and other detailed aircraft areas.  I have seen some individual posts to this effect, but nothing all together.  I have tried to micropaint and it's been pretty pathetic with a small brush and my goofy hands.  Any suggestions?  Thanks as always Question [?]
  • Member since
    November 2004
  • From: Freeport, IL USA
Posted by cdclukey on Friday, November 18, 2005 4:39 PM

It's kind of tricky, but I've been amazed how small a spot I can paint with my clumsy hands and a round toothpick The tricky part is that you can't expect the paint to flow as it would from a small brush; if you put enough paint on it to make it flow, it will glop off the toothpick in a bead and go everywhere. You have to keep it relatively dry and depend on direct transfer of paint from the point or sides to the spot you want it on. The point or sides MUST touch the spot you're painting, if you've got too much paint for that you've got too much paint on the toothpck, period.

The flat toothpicks with the squared small ends are good too, although obviously they won't be as precise. They are god for stuff like cockpit gauge faces, and I used one recently to paint the green on the MFD screns in 1/72 Hornet cockpit. 

BTW, I can't take credit for this tip, it was in FSM a few months ago, and the reader who sent it in says he paints the safety stripes on ejection seats with toothpicks. So, unless he's modelling in 1/32 or larger, it must be possible to put on very small amounts of paint very precisely. 

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, November 18, 2005 5:00 PM
i use this technique with a HUGE Magnifying glass attached to my work desk..
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Grass Valley, CA
Posted by seaphoto on Friday, November 18, 2005 5:57 PM

I have  used a .5mm mechanical pencil, dipped in paint, to put small dots with a fair amount of control.  Any pencil will do, even the cheap disposable kinds.

Kurt

 

Kurt Greiner

Interested in large scale, radio control warships? http://www.warshipmodelsunderway.com

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: Chicago, IL
Posted by jcfay on Wednesday, November 30, 2005 8:57 AM
Thanks for all of the advice, folks.  I was out shopping and stopped at JoAnn fabrics (or whatever it's called) and found they had a pretty good and cheap selection of super small brushes.  I picked up a couple sets with 5/0 and 10/0 brushes for cheap, and then also picked up an 18/0 and 20/0 brush.  These make the job a whole lot easier in certain situations.  Of course, you have to overcome the humiliation of going into Joann fabrics, which I am still not proud of Wink [;)]
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Green Bay, WI USA
Posted by echolmberg on Thursday, December 1, 2005 12:02 PM

Hello Jcfay!

 

I've stuggled for YEARS to paint those stupid darned switches and buttons and ejection handle strips but now I no longer have any problems.  "How?" you ask?  I've discovered the wonderful world of Sharpie markers!  I've always used them for my design work but I never thought to use them on my models until I read about it on this forum.  Now I use the fine point Sharpies in red, yellow and black to pick out all the fine details in my cockpits and other such small spaces.  One word of warning though.  I found out that hard way that if you use the Sharpie markers and then apply a Testors flat coat over everything, the flat coat will disolve away the Sharpie ink.  If at all possible, do your clear coats first before using the Sharpie.

 

Hope this helps!  It sure did for me!   :)

 

Eric

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, December 1, 2005 6:16 PM
Yeah, very small brushes are very useful. I don't like using toothpicks too much myself; either there's the recommended small amount of paint, which takes too long in my opinion, or else there's too much and you wind up globbing all over the fine detail. Use a magnifying glass, and move carefully with your brush. It still takes a while, but I still get better results faster than with the toothpick.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, December 4, 2005 8:23 AM

 jcfay wrote:
Thanks for all of the advice, folks.  I was out shopping and stopped at JoAnn fabrics (or whatever it's called) and found they had a pretty good and cheap selection of super small brushes.  I picked up a couple sets with 5/0 and 10/0 brushes for cheap, and then also picked up an 18/0 and 20/0 brush.  These make the job a whole lot easier in certain situations.  Of course, you have to overcome the humiliation of going into Joann fabrics, which I am still not proud of Wink [;)]

Meh, I had to get over the humiliation of going to fabric store years ago.  1 of my many hobbies is mideveil recreation and I sew my own costumes.  Its very expensive to purchase these garments made for you and they are rather plain.  Also I seem to change eras and countries every few years  so to be able to do this I must humilate myself by purchasing fabric.  So far I have made several peasent or work clothes garments that are rather simple and have the "look of mideveil clothing".  I then switched to about 1480 german puff and slash which is always extremely fashionable.  Currently Im do a japanese persona and even made a suit of suspension laced armor out of leather it is by far 1 of my greatest achievements and is displayed in our dinning room. 1 of these days Im going clean up another suit of armor I have and display it also in the dinning room.  But now that Im getting older and fatter I feel the urge to once again to make the switch, Im leaning more towards the style of Henry VIII. 

  • Member since
    December 2005
Posted by solid on Thursday, December 22, 2005 1:55 PM

I use "bamboo" slivers and they work perfectly for any size of model or detail.
Cut a "barbeque" bamboo stick in half, then half that. Now very carefully with a sharp
No.11 Exacto knife cut the "Sliver" you need for the job, the size you need. Its like using a tiny pen.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, December 22, 2005 10:24 PM
 seaphoto wrote:

I have  used a .5mm mechanical pencil, dipped in paint, to put small dots with a fair amount of control.  Any pencil will do, even the cheap disposable kinds.

Kurt

 


Sign - Ditto [#ditto] Thats what I do too, you can simply breaker off the lead when your done and its a cheap tool.

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