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Help w/ Painting Cockpits & Details

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  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Cincinnati, OH
Help w/ Painting Cockpits & Details
Posted by MA Cooke on Monday, December 26, 2005 8:37 AM

Hi all.

I build aircraft, primarily 1/48 scale, US WWII and later (main focus on Vietnam and modern jets).  I am puzzled when I see the incredible jobs done on cockpits, especially aftermarket cockpits such as Black Box and Aires.  How do you get the fine, crisp lines when painting the black instruments (individual panels on the main panel & the side consoles)?

I start by airbrushing the overall base color (for modern US stuff, dark gull grey), then start with a 2/0 or 3/0 brush, and slowwwwwwwly start painting the instruments flat black (or a dark grimey grey/black), using Model Master enamels (I've tried acrylics, to no avail - see below).  But I have great difficulty, the black usually bleeds out onto the grey, or the paint's too thick and it obliterates some (if not all) of the detail.

Do you all know a better technique, such as masking, smaller brushes, thinning the paint, etc.?  As far as thinning goes, how do I thin acrylics?  I've tried w/ isopropyl alcohol, but the paint doesn't cover well, and when I try to go over and re-cover, the subsequent coats lift the previous coats.

Thanks for your time, and hopefully help!

 

Mitchell Cooke

MACooke@fuse.net

On Bench: AM P-51B, Tamiya 1/48 F4U-1A On Deck: Hasegawa F-14's (too many); Tamiya P-47D; Academy P-47N;
  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Greencastle, IN
Posted by eizzle on Monday, December 26, 2005 7:25 PM
The only thing I can suggest is to try drybrushing the gauges. With just enough drybrushing, it will bring out the molded in detail and looks great, if its done right, which I can't seem to do Big Smile [:D]

Colin

 Homer Simpson for president!!!

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: CT - USA
Posted by thevinman on Monday, December 26, 2005 9:51 PM
Try this next time.

Basecoat wth Black (let it dry)
Then Put 3-5 coats of clear (Let each one dry)
Topcoat with Dark Gull Grey (let it dry0
Then, with a napkin pressed flat & slightly dampened with thinner, carefully rub and remove the paint from the raised details. This will leave super crisp lines. (The clear coat in between is to provide a thin barrier so you don't remove the Basecoat accidentailly.
You can experiment with different Basecoat and Topcoat colors to get the effect you like

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Tuesday, December 27, 2005 7:02 AM

Mitchell

 

Dry brushing works great and can be built up to get good coverage. Also, take a look at the link below.

http://s96920072.onlinehome.us/tnt1/001-100/TNT033_PE-Painting_Kwikkel/tnt033.htm

The Eduard painted PE sets are stunning if you want to go that route. A little 2 dimensional but really beautiful.

Marc  

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Central USA
Posted by qmiester on Tuesday, December 27, 2005 8:33 AM

You can make a decent set of intruments by scribing the face of the instrument.  Paint the face of the kit panel flat white and after it's dried, apply a coat of flat black.  Then using a magnifying glass and a needle, scribe the marks in each instrument.  When done, apply a drop of gloss or Future to the surface of each instrument. (I got the idea from one of Shep Paines early books)  And if you're scratch building the panel, simply apply a coat of flat black to a sheet of styrene.

I don't do a panel that way anymore - now I shoot the panel (or the styrene sheet) with a coat of gloss black and let it dry.  Then, using the proper diameter punch from my Waldron Punch Set, punch the instrument face from a decal sheet and apply it.  When all the decals have set, I wash the panel and apply a coat of clear flat.  Then I add a drop of either clear gloss or Future to the face of each instrument.  In addition, you can replicate the various switches on the panel or in the cockpit using streatched sprue. 

Quincy
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