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photo etched kits how to.

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  • Member since
    November 2005
photo etched kits how to.
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, July 28, 2003 1:18 PM
i want to try a go at using p/e kit on a armour kit.i hav never used this stuff befor.can any one give me some tips or recommend some reading matter.in the mean time i will find a brass kit which looks ok for a beginner.
  • Member since
    January 2003
Posted by shermanfreak on Monday, July 28, 2003 7:30 PM
First off pick a PE set from a company that has a good reputation such as Eduard. You'll need to have some tools to bend PE such as needle nose pliers. You'll also need CA glue to attach the PE to the model. Carefully remove the part from the tree, bend into shape, test fit then glue it done. I've never had any problems with the paint sticking to the part but some people advise priming the model. Work slowly and carefully, patience is what will get you through working with PE. Also remember .... yuo do not have to use every piece that comes with a PE fret, onlythe parts that will improve your model.
Happy Modelling and God Bless Robert
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, July 29, 2003 12:23 AM
shermanfreak,

pardon my ignorance but what is CA glue? regular modelmaster glue won't work? Heck since im at it.....what are the best glues you use...or is the CA something you use for everything?
  • Member since
    January 2003
Posted by shermanfreak on Tuesday, July 29, 2003 1:21 AM
CA glue is Cyanoacrylate glue. Commonly known as Super Glue or Krazy Glue. It is great stuff for working with the multi-media kits that are produced today or if you use a lot of After Market parts such as resin or PE. Regular model glues do not work very well with materials like brass.

They can be found in most hobby stores with a product called Zap-A-Gap being the most common but there are various other names that it is sold under. It comes in various thicknesses too: Thick, Medium, and Thin. Medium is the one that I use for most of my modelling though I do keep a bottle of thin around for tough seams. Medium is also the one that I suggest for all first time users. Apply it with a toothpick or a pin, it doesn't take nearly as much glue and dries in approx. 15 seconds.

Also great for sticking your fingers to the model.

I personally use it for all of my modelling though I do know others who don't.
Happy Modelling and God Bless Robert
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, July 29, 2003 3:38 AM
thanks for the help. i will give it a go once i have picked a apt etched kit.i have got my eye on a set for the late tiger which i have a unmade tamiya kit of.this might be a bit advanced for now,but "he who dare`s wins"

gazza.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Canada / Czech Republic
Posted by upnorth on Tuesday, July 29, 2003 11:38 AM
Do some research on your subject too, find some pictures of it and compare the features on the real thing with whats supposed to represent them on the PE fret.

A lot of times I've seen cylindrical objects on the real thing represented as flat bits on PE frets. Have some small guage wire on hand to represent things like railings, tow rings and the like.

Good luck
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, July 30, 2003 2:17 PM
Ok now Ive probably angered the person with the original post since I've tried to change the subject. So my question is to Robert or any of ya for that matter:
Do you use the Ca glue for everything then or just for the aftermarket parts? Do any of your prefer any certain brands?
Thanks for any info......
  • Member since
    January 2003
Posted by shermanfreak on Wednesday, July 30, 2003 8:19 PM
All I use is CA glue .... but that's just a personnal preference.
Happy Modelling and God Bless Robert
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