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Applying Glue, need advice

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Applying Glue, need advice
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, August 6, 2003 3:46 PM
I seem to be having a difficult time applying glues to my models without getting alot where it doesn't belong. I am using Zap a gap and also Testors in the black bottle. I have another watery type glue called Tenax 7R that is supposed to run along the seams by cappilary action, but when I try to get some on a toothpick or fine tip it doesnt seem to want to go on there. What do some of you people do for your models so that seams dont appear? I use the Testors that melts the plastic but if I use it all around where I need it there is always to much applied. Help really would be appreciated. Thanks

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Maine,USA
Posted by dubix88 on Wednesday, August 6, 2003 4:13 PM
HEY,
There is a testors bottle of model glue that has a pointed tip on it. It is black and has a red label. It is pretty cheap and most model stores carry it. It works great for me and it is watery so it runs. The pointed tip helps get into tight spaces. Hope this helps.

Randy
THATS MY VOTE "If a woman has to choose between catching a fly ball and saving infant's life, she will choose to save the infant's life without even considering if there is a man on base." -Dave Barry In the words of the great Larry the Cable Guy, "GIT-R-DONE!!!"
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: The flat lands of the Southeast
Posted by styrene on Wednesday, August 6, 2003 8:34 PM
Testors in the black bottle is similar to what used to be Testors tube glue. It's thicker than their liquid glue. I would advise getting Testors liquid cement. It's cheap, is thin like water, and bonds quickly (contains MEK). If you have the opportunity, check out Tamiya's glues. They make a regular and extra thin that is simply superb.

As far as applying liquid cement, do it with a paint brush or brushes. Pick up a sable hair pointed Number 1. This will work for almost all applications. For finer gluing, try a 3/0 or 5/0. DO NOT use nylon (the brushes with the white bristles); the glue will begin to eat those up fairly quickly. Tamiya glue comes with a very fine pointed brush applicator. Again, good stuff. If you are desperate for a tool to apply glue, MicroMark has a glass capillary tube with a wire attached. Fill up the capillary tube and touch the wire where you want the glue to go. I haven't tried it, but some of the guys I model with have them, and according the them they work pretty good. Most of the time, however, we use paint brushes.

For CA glues, get a short, straight piece of paper clip (or needle, pin, etc.) and chuck it into an X-acto knife handle. Take a small square piece of aluminum foil and put several drops of CA on the foil. Dip just the tip in the superglue, and then apply it where you want it to go. You'll find your ability to control placement is much better. There are a lot more ways to do this, and members of this forum wil be more than happy to tell you their method, as well. Hope this helps.
Gip Winecoff

1882: "God is dead"--F. Nietzsche

1900: "Nietzsche is dead"--God

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Panama City, Florida, Hurricane Alley
Posted by berny13 on Wednesday, August 6, 2003 9:01 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by styrene



If you are desperate for a tool to apply glue, MicroMark has a glass capillary tube with a wire attached. Fill up the capillary tube and touch the wire where you want the glue to go.



I have used this tool and it works great with tenax. The wire is actually hollow. Just place it into the tenax bottle and it will transfer some to the applicator. Just touch it to a surface and capillary action will pull some from the aplicator and into the seam.

Berny

 Phormer Phantom Phixer

On the bench

TF-102A Delta Dagger, 32nd FIS, 54-1370, 1/48 scale. Monogram Pro Modeler with C&H conversion.  

Revell F-4E Phantom II 33rd TFW, 58th TFS, 69-260, 1/32 scale. 

Tamiya F-4D Phantom II, 13th TFS, 66-8711, 1/32 scale.  F-4 Phantom Group Build. 

 

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, August 6, 2003 9:18 PM
I have one of those applicators for the tenax, and it seems to be clogged and doesn't work. I tried cleaning it out but it must have some glue dried in the tip. Will use the ideas you guys have posted though, always get the help I need here, except for oil paint questions, seems people dont talk about that muchBig Smile [:D]
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Panama City, Florida, Hurricane Alley
Posted by berny13 on Wednesday, August 6, 2003 9:40 PM
Place the applicator in the bottle of tenax. Let it sit until it starts to draw the glue into the tube. Remove from the bottle and put the tip on the inside of the bottle to drain the glue out. After the glue is gone take the applicator and tap the tip on a hard surface. Just hold it above the surface and let it drop. Do this several times and it will clear the tip. After each use tap the tip to remove any glue left in the applicator. I have several applicators and some are over eight years old. This is the trick I use to keep them clear.

Berny

 Phormer Phantom Phixer

On the bench

TF-102A Delta Dagger, 32nd FIS, 54-1370, 1/48 scale. Monogram Pro Modeler with C&H conversion.  

Revell F-4E Phantom II 33rd TFW, 58th TFS, 69-260, 1/32 scale. 

Tamiya F-4D Phantom II, 13th TFS, 66-8711, 1/32 scale.  F-4 Phantom Group Build. 

 

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by nimshi on Saturday, August 9, 2003 8:24 AM
For the liquid glue I use insulin syringes which you can pick up at any drug store/pharmacy. I am dibetic so I always have them around. You can control the application superbly and it doesn't evaporate while its in the barrel of the syringe. I have left one on my workbench for a couple of days and it was still there when I picked it back up. Just be careful you don't stick yourself!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, August 9, 2003 8:36 AM
QUOTE: For CA glues, get a short, straight piece of paper clip (or needle, pin, etc.) and chuck it into an X-acto knife handle.

If you use a sewing needle you can cut it through the eye and you are left with a forked end that will pick a little more glue than the pointed end.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Third rock from the sun.
Posted by Woody on Sunday, August 10, 2003 12:11 AM
The sewing needle trick is great. I've been using it for a long time, but I pull the bristles out of my old paint brushes and push the needle into it. Wink [;)]

" I wish to have no connection with any ship that does not sail fast; for I intend to go in harm's way." --John Paul Jones
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, August 10, 2003 10:17 AM
I too will vouch for the 'capillary tube' that has been mentioned. I use it with Ambroid and it is very precise. In adding to the above, I find that a clog can be coaxed along if you blow into the back end of the tube. Just don't blow too hard because you'll end up getting saliva in the tube.

Whatever you do, don't think that you can use thin CA glue in one of these things. It will totally clog the thing. (Don't ask me what I was smoking when I tried it...)

Murray
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, August 12, 2003 4:04 PM
Two questions: What do you try next with the glass tube and wire if it doesn't start to draw the Tenax up the tube?

Is there anything that will melt CA. I've been tempted to try the glass tube/wire with CA, but haven't because I figured if I did I would be using that particular glass tube only once.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Third rock from the sun.
Posted by Woody on Tuesday, August 12, 2003 5:47 PM
Hi Steve, If you put CA in your "Touch-N-Flow" applicator, it's toast. When I bought mine it came in a kit containing a bottle of Tenax, the applicator, and a squeeze bottle with a metal tube. Put the bottles tube in the glue and draw out a little. Insert the squeeze bottle tube into the top of the glass tube and squeeze some in. Leave the squeeze bottle out to refill the applicator as needed. For quick use I just put my finger tightly over the glass tube so it protruded slightly into the opening. Remove it quickly and some glue is drawn into the tube.Wink [;)]

" I wish to have no connection with any ship that does not sail fast; for I intend to go in harm's way." --John Paul Jones
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 7:46 AM
Thanks. I'll give it a try.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 8:46 PM
How long does it usually take for the glue to start crawling up into the tube? I bought one a long time ago but I had the same problem that miller41 did. I don't know if I was just too impatient or what but it didn't seem to work for me either.

Ray
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 9:00 PM
Hey Murray Kish or anyone else, what is Ambroid? I'm pnly famaliar with Tenax and CA.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Third rock from the sun.
Posted by Woody on Thursday, August 14, 2003 11:01 PM
Ray, I have never had one clog and mine draws fairly quick. Try to get one of those Tenax kit bottles, they work great. Steve, Ambroid is similar to Tenax. I like it better because I think it is a little quick to set and fairly cheap at $2.99 a bottle.

" I wish to have no connection with any ship that does not sail fast; for I intend to go in harm's way." --John Paul Jones
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