Clear Canopies?

I usually buy after-market canopies that are thinner and clearer -- if they are available.

BUT I also use Future on them. You can dip them in Future and it does a pretty nice job!

Future...this is floor wax stuff?

The same. You can also use clear gloss paint, sealer, or just mask off the cockpit until it's attached to the model and it's pretty much finish. I never handle the canopy until I assemble it onto the model, and always keep it separate from the other parts to avoid scratching.

demono69

A few key things:
1. Keep the clear parts seperate as you build the model. Churning around in the box is what wrecks most of them.
2. Clean them really good (with windex or something) and then dip them in Future. Put them in a dust free place to dry and let them be for 48-72 hours (the more the better)
3. When you're assembling them, be very delicate and try not to touch them with our bare fingers. I have some cotton gloves (actually they're from a photo store and are intended to be used for handling negatives) that really help keep the pieces clean.
4. Use white glue in small amounts to hold the plastic in. You don't need to 'weld' the part in. Don't use CA glue on clear parts because it will cause it to 'fog'
5. If you need to paint on the clear part, I find it helps to score the plastic wherever the edges of the paint will be. For instance, on a car window, I run a light score around the edge where the 'black' window frame will come to. Then, when I'm painting the frame, the paint will typically 'run' to this line, but not past it. Of course, this doesn't make much difference if you plan to mask and spray instead.

Good luck. Patience is the key!!

Murray

Murray thanks for the tip on scoring the plastic, I just had a 'DUH" moment. Its so simple and I never thought of it.

hey guys,
firstly and most frustratingly, i've been unable to find "future" stuff as i'm in the uk and can't get find it here anywhere.[:0]
i do however use a spray on varnish which does seem to do the trick.
my question is can i spray my canopies?? bare in mind that it is an aerosol spray and thus pretty thick, the opposite to airbrushing...so?? i always hear about "dipping" in future...i don't seem to have this option!
i'm new to this site, so hi everyone by the way...
nick
(london)

In the U.K., I believe that Johnson's Klear is the equivalent of Future. You could try spraying some of the product you have into a container, deep enough to immerse the canopy, and see what happens. Of course, try this out on a spare, old, or unused part before you risk your latest project. Good luck !

pixilater you're a star!!!
cheers,
nick

Hey I am just reading and thnaks for the excellent tips guys!

You guys probably already know this but simply washing the canopies with soap and water will get oil and grease off.
Also when I first open a kit, first I say "This is a peice a crap, but I'll build it anyway" or "Wow, I'm glad I bought Tamiya this time" Then I put all the clear parts and decals in ziplock bags until i need to use them.

BARsrue2

hey guys,
...and especially for those in the UK, i just bought my first bottle of future/"johnsons klear"...AND IT WORKS A TREAT!!!!
so thank you everyone, espicially pixilater for telling me what it's called on This Sceptred Isle!
nick
ps for gloss coats pre decals etc, do you use future as well? if so, what do you use to dilute it?
thank you in advance!

nmayhew _ glad to see it worked !
Yes, I use Future for a glosscoat for decalling & giving the model a wash. I have not needed to dilute it, but some modellers use denatured alcohol. Test first on some scrap to find if your style or setup requires it.
I also dry brush Future on small parts that need a semi-gloss finish (leather aircraft seats, control boxes, etc.).
Future can even be used to attach small parts to clear ones, provided there is no stress applied to the part. I would use it to attach a clear armored plate to an aircraft windscreen, but not to attach windows from inside the model.
Hope this helps !

I found a tip on the internet that I've discovered works great for dull finishes on weathered aircraft and armor. Mix Future and Tamiya's X-21 Flat Base for a dull finish. 50/50 for super flat , add less X-21 for more shine. I thin it with Tamiya X-20A Acrylic Thinner. I do this just before "chipping the paint" as it will dull the "aluminum/steel" paint. It won't yellow over time like some dullcoats from a spraycan do.

A scale modeler should not be without be this stuff!

I've heard it even works on floors too!

Guys, I'm in a bind and I could use some advise. I am building Trup's HH-65A and this is the first time I ever needed to glue together 2 halfs of a canopy. I used Elmers white glue, undiluted, on the inside only. I'm not thrilled with the way it came out. The seam is kind of foggy and it's not 100 percent even.

1) First can I remove the glue and start over. I was thinking of using Go-Gone. Anyone have experience with this product on a clear canopy?

2) I will need to paint the seam orange. How do I fill the seam? Can I just use the Green Paste? It will be a sanding nightmare. I'll probably scrach the canopy.

3) When should (should have) I dipped it into the Future? Before gluing the halfs of after? Can you glue over a Future treated part?

4) Anyone have any experience with Micromark's WATCH CRYSTAL CEMENT (# 80303). I just ordered some and was wondering how well it works.

Thanks for your help.
-Lee

Lee
Cant reply directly to a lot of your questions, but will share my experience with canopies and Future for your edification.

On when to Future clear parts - its before use.
Some glues weaken the coating (I believe, others may doubt me) and also some decal setting solutions.
BUT
Future is helpful and should be on your workbench,

The watch glue is great I hear.

My experience with canopies is thus:
I try putties, glues, paints, anything unproven on the sprues that my part came from as a trial run.
And I hope you have some sprues available so you can try this as well.

Best of Luck
Firemann816

Thanks for your reply fireman. Does anyone have any more information?
-Lee

I'm dealing pretty much with the same issue, so I have 2 questions.

1) Does anybody know how can I fix a small crack in a canopy?? I've been thinking to use cristal clear but not sure if it works or no.

2) I usually mask the canopies with scotch tape and then remove the portion i don't need with a cutter. Can I do this if the canopy was previously deep in future?? I'm afraid the the cutter might crack the future film, any advise??

Thanks
Saul

zlee1 I can answer most of your questions above.

1) to remove the Elmers glue..just peel it off. It doesn't actually bond to the parts it only sticks if you know what I mean. Use a knife point or toothpick to get it started.

2) I would fill the seam with super glue butI love working with the stuff. If you try it be careful applying it, use as little as possible and have a fan blowing so the fumes won't collect around the canopy and frost it. If you use regular putty you still need to be careful of fumes, it can frost it a little too but not near as bad.

After it's filled and dry, mask each side of the seamliine with regular masking tape and sand carefully so you don't tear up the tape. It will protect sanding outside the area and you may have to reapply the tape depending on how long it takes. just replace the tape if it starts getting ragged.

3) Dip it in the Future as the last step. Then put it on the finished model...unless you want to weather the frames, then you'll want to mask it after futuring (new word) and weather it on the plane. remove masks after done and that should be it.

4)The Watch Crystal cement...I bought some years ago and it seems to work pretty good but don't think it's going to hold like super glue! It is a little better than Elmers but it won't hold against a stress fit. It's good stuff just don't expect too much from it.

Hope this helps,

Eric

Eric,
Thank you very much for your help. You've helped alot. One more question for you guys:
The canopy is to be painted gloss USCG orange and flat black. The nose of the aircraft is gloss black. The gloos black will be right up against the flat black. I would like to maintain this look. What will the Future do to the flat black? Will I loose this contrast? Should I mask the flat black sections before Futuring?

One more thing... I intend to paint the top of the canopy Tamiya clear green, as simulate the tinting. However, I feel that the clear green is too light. Does anyone have experience adding a few drops of Tamiya Smoke to darken the color a bit. I don't have any clear scrap to try it first.