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Puttying Techniques

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  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Savannah, GA USA
Puttying Techniques
Posted by Bones-coa on Tuesday, September 2, 2003 11:05 AM
As well as some other things, I'm going to start practicing to improve my puttying skills. More specifically in tight areas or areas that I don't want to remove panel line or details. What brands are best? I've used Squadron green and the old Testors stuff.

Anyone care to spill their guts? Smile [:)]
Dana
Dana F On the bench: Tamiya DO335B-2 with LOTS of Aires stuff (On Hold) Trumpeter A-10 with LOTS and LOTS of aftermarket goodies! (On Hold) Tamiya 240ZG (In work)
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Harrisburg, PA
Posted by Lufbery on Tuesday, September 2, 2003 1:20 PM
Dana,

One technique that I've used a lot with good effect is to put the putty down where it needs to go, and then wipe off the excess with a Q-tip dipped in nail polish remover. More detail can be found here:

http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/TnT_Archives/Filling.htm

Look under "Filling Without Sanding"

Regards,

-Drew

P.S. Oh, I use standard Testors putty. :D

-Drew

Build what you like; like what you build.

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Western Pennsylvania
Posted by genj53john on Wednesday, September 3, 2003 8:08 PM
I've just tried the nail polish trick with Squandron green putty and it works great. It's the easiest technique I've tried. Unfortunately I learned about it after I spent two days working on just two small seams with sandpaper. Live & learn.

John
John
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Savannah, GA USA
Posted by Bones-coa on Wednesday, September 3, 2003 10:11 PM
I was just reading the technique using stretched sprees. I'm a bit confused. Did they lay the spree in there while it was still warm? And then keep doing this continuosly follwed by sanding? Or was it glued and thus melted in with liquid cement?
Dana F On the bench: Tamiya DO335B-2 with LOTS of Aires stuff (On Hold) Trumpeter A-10 with LOTS and LOTS of aftermarket goodies! (On Hold) Tamiya 240ZG (In work)
  • Member since
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  • From: USA
Posted by mtollens on Thursday, September 4, 2003 5:28 AM
Bones,

Thin sprue is melted in with liquid cement; I used to have a small bottle of melted sprue and liquid cement sludge for just that purpose, especially if you're using a metal spray finish that you are polishing later on. I have also used the testors putty thinned with alcohol and wiped down with alcohol after filling instead of sanding. The squadron green I've wiped down with paint thinner; it seems to work well with a good q-tip.
Max Tollens "plastic surgeon"
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Green Bay, WI USA
Posted by echolmberg on Thursday, September 4, 2003 12:27 PM
Bones,

All these tips have worked great for me. I'd like to add one more snippet to it all as well. Along with with above techniques, try using making tape to "fence in" the area where you'll be puttying (is that a word?). For example, along a fuselage seam. Rather than having a wide swatch of putty running along the seam, place two strips of tape,one on each side, of the seam. Apply the putty, wipe it down using the alcohol or thinner, then remove the tape. Now you'll have a very narrow putty line left to deal with rather than a wide one. It will help minimize your sanding. Good luck and have fun!

Eric

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by PHATBOB58 on Thursday, September 4, 2003 5:48 PM
All these techniques sound great although I've found it easier working with Squadron white instead of green. If you have to sand, its not quite as hard.
Bob Moore 4660 Kingston Dr. Pensacola, Fl. 32526
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, September 5, 2003 12:08 AM
Eric, good tip on 'fencing' in the putty area. I do this too and it works really well!!

Personally, I use Bondo spot/glaze putty and it works quite well too. I find that it dries a bit faster than the Squadron stuff and I can feather the edge a whole lot nicer than the Squadron stuff.

Murray
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, September 6, 2003 10:12 AM
Has anyone thinned the putty (Squadron White for example) to make it more liquid? I remember reading not too long ago about a technique that used putty thinned with liquid model glue as an alternative for Mr. Surfacer. Is this a good idea (chemically)? In general I have found limited fair results with the sprue sludge (works great for specific needs). I would love to thin the putty for welding marks and general use of filler but I'm afraid of what to use and types (chemical reactions gone bad).
Thanks
Dmod
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, September 7, 2003 9:06 PM
Dmod.

Try nail polish remover with Squadron putties. I use the Cutex brand in a salmon colored bottle. It works well with Squadron green and with Bondo Spot/Glaze putty so I assume it'd work well with Squadron white.

Murray
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, September 8, 2003 11:29 AM
Thanks so much Murray. I will give it a try.
Note: What technique do people use for weld marks on the seams of armor?
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, September 11, 2003 11:35 PM
Eveyone says the nail polish remover works great. My question is why doesn't the acetone (which is in a lot of polish removers) melt the plastic and screw the whole this up?

Randy
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Harrisburg, PA
Posted by Lufbery on Friday, September 12, 2003 7:55 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by icedragonrkh

Eveyone says the nail polish remover works great. My question is why doesn't the acetone (which is in a lot of polish removers) melt the plastic and screw the whole this up?

Randy


Hi Randy,

The answer is that nail polish remover is actually diluted acetone, so it doesn't hurt the plastic. This is especially true because you're just using it to wipe off putty, so it's actually not on the model for very long.

Regards,

-Drew

-Drew

Build what you like; like what you build.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Steeler Country
Posted by Kumy on Friday, September 19, 2003 8:18 AM
I tried Squadron White putty and wiping it off with Tamiya Acrylic Airbrush thinner and it attacked the plastic on my A-10. I guess that was a bad combo. I'll try the Cutex nail polish remover next.

In principle this is a great way of filling. I just have to stop using my tamiya thinner! Smile [:)]
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, October 9, 2003 2:54 PM
Evercoat Company makes a GREAT body putty called Metalglaze ---cures VERY fast and machines and sands nicely. I rolled the rear pan on a 32 Ford 3 Window using Evergreen tacked in place as a mold/form, them mixed and spread the metalglaze in place. Perfection. Cost is approx $20.00 per quart w/ hardener.
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Sandusky Ohio, USA
Posted by Swanny on Thursday, October 9, 2003 4:25 PM
Here is the best way that I have found to deal with seams. It does not eliminate sanding 100% but it sure helps and saves a heck of a lot of detail.

This is a five-step process that moves along at about three inches at a time.

Step 1: Cut thin strips of masking tape and place along both sides of the seam leaving about a three-millimeter gap.



Step 2: Using a trowling tool (I use a potters detail tool for clay) lay on a coating of white putty.



Step 3: Immediately remove the tape pulling it away from the wet putty.


Step 4: Use a good quality cotton swab (I'm using a Q-Tip) dipped in acetone-based fingernail polish remover and wipe down the putty.

Smooth out the seam. This will greatly reduce the amount of sanding required.


Step 5: After the putty has had ample time to dry, sand the seams with a fine sand paper.

And this is what the finished product looks like...

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, October 11, 2003 10:57 PM
What should I use to clean Testor's Contour Putty? Will acetone do that, or should I use something else? I'm really getting tired of filing away at plastic, and having to reclean my needle-files every minute or so!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, October 11, 2003 11:09 PM
Don't use acetone. Use nail polish remover (the kind that contains acetone) as described in Lufbery's link above.
Sure beats all that sanding and filing.
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by nsclcctl on Sunday, October 12, 2003 3:19 PM
I just tried this fencing technique or whatever with masking tape. I am so proud of myself. I used it on a seam on a Tamiya ME262 I am building. Absolutely incredible how easy it was. I was a horrible puttier, if that is the word. I made messes all over the plavce with excess putty. Now, a thin line is all I get. Remove the tape and wallah, sand it down. What a great idea!
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Central USA
Posted by qmiester on Sunday, October 19, 2003 7:09 PM
try thinning your putty with laquer thinner - I use automotive pinhole putty (Dupont - the red stuff), its laquer based and I believe the Squadron puttys are to - The sprue/glue combination works well but always seems to have a lot of bubbles in which become pin holes when you sand it down -experiment and find out what works the best for you
Quincy
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, November 22, 2003 8:30 AM
I had used the Testors' putty with alcohol with no problem. I will try the acetone method and let you know later. Another tip I read in FSM was using the white correction tape in a dispenser for fixing typos. It works fine if you are careful.
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Panama City, Florida, Hurricane Alley
Posted by berny13 on Saturday, November 22, 2003 9:39 AM
I use the same technique described by Swanny. I just go one step further by putting masking tape back on beside the seam prior to sanding. This helps protect the surrounding area from any sanding damage. It decreases the damage to panel lines and makes it easy to rescribe any sanded away detail. I even use this technique inside of intakes and other hard to reach areas. This is where a good set of needle nose come in handy.

Berny

 Phormer Phantom Phixer

On the bench

TF-102A Delta Dagger, 32nd FIS, 54-1370, 1/48 scale. Monogram Pro Modeler with C&H conversion.  

Revell F-4E Phantom II 33rd TFW, 58th TFS, 69-260, 1/32 scale. 

Tamiya F-4D Phantom II, 13th TFS, 66-8711, 1/32 scale.  F-4 Phantom Group Build. 

 

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: polystyreneville
Posted by racingmaniac on Friday, December 12, 2003 9:52 PM
I use Elmer's Wood Putty to fill everything. It goes on pretty good and it sands quite easily. I think it's easier than squadron. It's a tad bit thinner than Squadron putty, also.

Ken
that which doesn't make us irate or irritated, has probably been thrown against the wall.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Savannah, GA USA
Posted by Bones-coa on Saturday, December 13, 2003 1:23 PM
Does wood putty shrink, racingmaniac? How does it compare in that respect to Squadron putty?

Dan F
Dana F On the bench: Tamiya DO335B-2 with LOTS of Aires stuff (On Hold) Trumpeter A-10 with LOTS and LOTS of aftermarket goodies! (On Hold) Tamiya 240ZG (In work)
  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Manila, Philippines
Posted by shrikes on Monday, December 15, 2003 11:25 AM
Hey, Swanny! I just did my first credible puttying last night following your instructions and it worked great! (Though i used alcohol instead of acetone...) the masking tape really helps! Thanks again!
Blackadder: This plan's as cunning as a fox that used to be Professor of cunning at Oxford University but has now moved on and is working with the U.N at the high commission of cunning planning
  • Member since
    November 2003
Posted by TryintoModel on Wednesday, December 17, 2003 11:15 AM
Can you still remove excess putty after it has dried with nail polish remover etc.? I just applied some putty last night and was planning on sanding it today, can I still remove the access withough sanding?
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, February 17, 2004 3:28 PM
That link is a gold mine. Thanks for "clueing" me in. It is funny that the same techniques we use to put putty on plastic models is the same as the Air Force teaches mechanics to apply sealant onto multi-million dollar aircraft. Guess even some things are to basic to change. You might think the Air Force would have some thousand dollar sealant gun, well ok they do but we like the tape and follow the lines much better. As you might expect it is much faster also. Great tip on the nail pollish remover, we don't get to use this one on planes. Big Smile [:D]
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