types of glue

jjlopez

What kind of super glue were you using? (I want to make sure I stay away from it!) You weren't using super glue for wood were ya?
I used to use only the expensive kind that you could only find in hobbyshops like Zap-A-Gap or Flash but have since found that any of the "superglues" that you can buy anywhere work just as well.
You can get them in thin and thick consistency (I recommend getting both).
I really can't imagine what could have happened with your F15. Usually you can't pry that stuff apart if you had too. Make sure it says "cyanoacralate" on it.
Testors liquid cement and Tenax 7r also work well in certain applications.
Hope this is some help.

Try resanding and cleaning with a CA remover, then use just enough glue to give a very light coat to the wingtips and seams. That should hold it together quite well. Might even save your Eagle.

demono69

Try a clear liquid cement in one of those Touch-N-Flow applicators from Micromark. I use Weld-on #3, primarily because I get all I want for free.

JJ used properly on plastic the liquid plastic cement will give you a stronger joint. It actually melts the plastic together. The CA glue bonds it together. You should have a clean surface for either product.

Hey guys Thank alot! for Info.... Anyway the tube saids BONDINI made by Pro-tel. STAY AWAY from it!!!.... I "m cleaning the junk on the f15 now and getting something better. I'll try the Zap a Gap. Where can I get the CA type? (is this the whole name?)..... Man! there is hardly any model stores around here in Arizona.

If there is a will, there is a way...

Interestingly, both Zap-a-Gap and Bondini are both made by Pacer Technology in California. Both products list the same approximate percentages of ethyl cyanoacrylate, methyl methacrylate and hydroquinone. There is no apparent difference between the wood glue and the material being used for modeling. The Bondini should be adequate for model construction. Bondini is even recommended in industrial electronic repair processes. I agree that a plastic cement should be used where possible, but this glue should not be responsible for the problems described. Just wondering, was there any residual mold release or other oily substance on the kit when gluing began? Adequate surface preparation is always important prior to beginning construction. No, I don't work for Pacer.....
Gip Winecoff

you may want to look in to what else pacer offers, on the industrial side. in my electronics manufacturing days a few years back we used rx-gel ritualisticly. this stuff holds with easily 10 pounds or more force depending on the application. its hard stuff once its dry.

http://www.pacertech.com/other.htm

there was an accelerant that we used with it, but it oxidizes what ever it touches fast, so i wouldnt use it.

mind you, it was very easy to work with. its a thick gel but small amounts are all thats needed.

Dichloromethane or methyl ethyl ketone are very good liquid glues they run along the seem using capillary action to bond the two sufaces.

what about plastic weld?
will it work for model styrene or will eat through everything untill it finds no more food?
it costs around 10$!! where i live so i do not want to waste them for nothing.

from my experience, if you use to much of a super glue it wont stick as well, maybe this could be some of your problem. plastic weld is a good product, i have used it in the past but i must admit i still use the testors glue in the orange tube and i dont seem to have all the trouble everyone says they have with the stringing? i never 'squeze' out my glue, i let gravity pull it out and have never had any trouble.