Squadron White/Green Putty?

This is the address for Dr.Microtools. I think the company may have closed up shop. Dr. Microtools, PO Box 21585, Columbus, OH 43221 USA

Were can you buy Dr. Micro Tool putty. I would like to try it.
mark956

I would have to agree with most said here......I mainly use Sqaudron......both green and white....however I have purchased some Tamiya Putty and will be using it once the Sqaudron is all gone.....As far as Testors putty.....well we wont go there! What a waste of perfectly good packaging.....Im glad it works for you Tenchi.....I too live in Florida and have had no luck what so ever with it.....

Box-Stock is on the right track.

A two part polyester filler is much faster and does not shrink like lacquer based putties. The Evercoat brand is good, as are others like Wurth, Marson, etc. I personally use a product called "Icing" that is a two part poly filler made to fill small pinholes or dings in 1:1 cars. They also make a product called "Thin ice" that is flowable and can be used to make castings.

They all stick to plastic well, set up in minutes allowing you to sand in a very short time, feather well and DO NOT SHRINK!!!! Nothing worse than having sanding scratches start to appear months after you have finished your project!

Rick

I beleive Mark Gustavson, an often contributer to Scale Auto Enthusiast, mentioned in an article a couple of years ago an automotive product called Evercoat Euro-soft Polyester Glazing Putty. It's used on full scale auto, comes on two parts, the putty in an 32 ounce can and a small tube of catalizer. This stuff dries fairly fast, depending on how much catalizer you add, doesn't take much! It doesn't shrink, made for real life cars. Works on plastic styrene ok. I finally got fed up with green putty and it's shrinking problem and went to a auto-body supply store and found this glazing putty a couple of years ago and have used it ever since. I only use a fraction of an ounce at any one time. I take a toothpick and drop a little blob on a clean piece of paper and then take just a little bit of the blue catalizer out of the tube and mix it altogether and then put it where it needs to go. Don't dally as this stuff starts drying while you're deciding where to put it. It can be sanded in a few hours, even less depending on how much catalizer you add. I'd say the ratio of catalizer to putty is maybe 1 to 12. Doesn't take much catalizer to set up. One good thing about using so little putty at any given time is that this 32oz jar will just about last a lifetime. Main thing is to keep the lid on tight so it doesn't dry out!

Hope this helps and not confuses!

Glenn

Here's that thread, Swandive!

I'm putting that old F-4, 1/32 scale from Revel. The one with removable engine, canopies raise and lower. I just read your statement on using acetone wipes to remove the White putty; what is that Swanny...acetone?

Might have to give it a shot, Woody!

RC, I usually use super glue on seams if they remain after assembly, but what I usually do is when gluing pieces together, I use the ol' squeeze trick where you just squeeze the parts together to get that little ooze of plastic (that is, if you're using solvent glue for assembly), and after it's completely dry, a quick swipe of the trusty X-Acto and a wipe with some light sandpaper is all ya need to take care of the seam.
As far as replacing detail, if I do destroy any panel lines or rivets, I just re-scribe or add the rivets that were lost.

Hey J-Hulk, I used to be a show vendor and bought a case for resale. After using it I fell in love with stuff! Spreads like Jiff and can be sanded until its see through without sloughing off. I mainly asked who is using it so I can find some more, getting kind of low. I do recommend it though.

Much Thanks to both Merlin V1650 and Bones-Coa for your help on my problem! I'll try it on my very next project! Once again thank you and thank you FSM for giving us this forum to use.

Here's that link (or one of them anyway)

http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/TnT_Archives/Filling.htm

I got around the problem by using the aectone trick with putty. That cuts sanding down, at least for me, to almost nothing. I don't have the link right now on that but I'm sure someone here can post it for ya.

Dana

I've read the posts in this forum and found them to be informative. I've tried to email members and although logged in, I was unable to so, I hope that I can get an answer this way. Regardless of the putty used, how can I prevent losing detail such as rivets and panel lines? I do use Squadron putty either white or green (whatever is available) sparingly! However, I still lose detail that I do not want to lose! J-Hulk, you said that you used Zap-a-Gap and do your best to fit parts as close as possible, but, there's still that seam. Any help out there in this subject? Thanks.

Hi Woody.
Have heard good things about Dr. Micro Tool, but have never tried it myself.
Do you recommend it?

Has anyone tried Dr Micro Tool putty?

Ahhh, so there is a secret to using Testors!

If you like it Tench, that's cool with me.

To be honest, I really don't use much putty at all. I try to get parts to fit as much as possible before assembly, then I usually use gap-filling super glue to deal with any seams.

If I do any major surgery or need to sculpt something (like the front lip of my E-100's skirts), again, the Tamiya Polyster Putty is the best for me. It's very solid and grain-free, and is perfect for sculpting.

Getting back to the subject of this topic (well, sort of!), I don't think Squadron is sculptable at all. Not bad for filling seams, though.

Well, the one problem I've ever had with testors contour putty is, tht it sometimes likes to come off if you attack it with a needle file. So, once I've laid it down and sanded/filed it smooth, I apply a thin layer of testors non-toxic model cement to it, which seals it to the plastic! After that, I hand-brush a nice coat of paint, and my model is done!

i agree with umax5555 bondo @ wally world is the way to go. i used to use all that other stuff & did not get good sanding results .i tried the bondo & it handled like a charm nothing else for me

Actually, the one on the top is a bigger tube and it's says it's red putty. That's all I know.

Dana

The second one is the one I'm talking about! That's my miracle worker!
(then again, it might just be the Florida humidity keeping it from drying too quickly...).
J-Hulk:
Hey! Yeah, it is good to be back! I was pretty flooded with schoolwork and work-work(IE: painting a neighbor's house, painting a business's office, starting a business with several friends...), that I have barely had time to breathe, let alone make models! And, on top of all that, I've started a gaming clan for one of my favorite PC Games, MechWarrior4:Mercenaries! So, my hobby has sadly had a bit less time to be done in, and thus I've had less to post about! Also, I've been in mourning for the past two weeks, my girlfriend(Alicia) dumped me. So, after work, schoolwork, depression, and gaming, FSM sadly got put to the wayside! I'm finally back, however, and I'll be managing to fit you guys back into my schedule!

Aaaaaiiiieeeeee!!!![:0]

The one on the bottom! That's the one!!
It's like...kryptonite....
Strength...waning...can't ...type......(clunk)

Yeah, that's the culprit on the bottom. The big tube.
Is that the putty you're talking about, Tench?

I've never seen the little feller on top. Is it the same substance in a different package?

Thanks for the pix, Steve.
Now I'll never get to sleep with that horrifying image fresh in my head!!!

Here they are:

I've seen two tubes of the stuff: One being in a small grey and white tube, the other being in a large fat tube. I guess the small tube is Testors and the big tube is Testors MM. Maybe you guys are not talking about the same one.
Dana

Tench!
Where ya been, Mister?
Glad to see ya back posting.

We cannot possibly be talking about the same product here, although the name is astonishingly the same. Testors Contour Putty, right?

Hmmmm...Well, if you're getting good results with it, my hat's off to you, sir!
I found it to be entirely worthless for any application. And I've given it many chances over the years, so I'm not simply basing my opinion on a decades-old one-time bad experience.

It has been a few years, though...maybe they've straightened it out since then.

Anyway, happy puttying!

I don't know, I must be in the minority here, but I LOVE Testors Contour Putty!
Maybe they've changed the formula on y'all or something, but the stuff works miracles for me! I use it as ballast for nose cones, putty for gaps and cracks, a tiny dab will make a very nice larg-scale bead for a gunsight, and I've even used it to scrathcbuild a bandolier(one of those ammo belt thingies) for one of my gundams! I SWEAR by testors contour putty, I think it's the most useful tool on my hobby table!
Matter-of-fact, my modeling addiction recently had to come to a grinding halt when my tube finally ran out(that happens alot)! That's the only complaint I have about testors putty, that it comes in such small tubes!!

Green putty is harder than white putty. White putty feathers and sands easier. I use white putty with an acetone wipe for most seams or superglue/acclerator combination for smaller spots.

James, few things incur my wrath more than Testors putty! Wet coffee grinds are a much more suitable alternative to that miserably failed product.

Upon reflection, however, life must be pretty darn good if one of the few things that infuriates me so is an insignificant hobby product!

Like J-Hulk, I agree that the Tamiya putty is the best of all; however, I also get tremendous results from using DuPont's Spot 'N Glaze Lacquer Putty. I use the red oxide #2288S. It goes on and sands ultra-smooth. I bought a large tube (comes in 1 pound tubes) of this stuff for $18 about 12 years ago at my local paint store. The tube is still over half full and performing flawlessly.
Gip Winecoff

I always thought Squadron was a little on the thick side myself. Anyone else like Dr Micro Tool putty? Anyone have a homemade putty they like?