Rust stains

Testors makes an acrylic paint under the Model Master Acryl name called Rust no. 4675, it is an excellent color and works well as a dry wash or watered down.

I use blendable Stencil Paint creme for everything from rust to oil and smoke stains.
It works better than anything else I've ever tried.
Comes in all colors.

My way is to use some Burnt Sienna oil paint from any Artist paint's range. Use it straight from the tube. With a fine brush, apply little dots of paint on bolt/rivet heads, or any specitic location then use a flat, dry brush to smear the paint down. Clean the flat brush regularly, but only in a rag to remove the excess paint, not in thinner as this will mess up the next 'smearings'... It's a very effective method, easy to do, easy to control. Good luck.

Polly-S Paints (are they still around???) used to make a bottle of acrylic brown/rust-colored paint, called "Rust". That bottle lasted me for several years!!! (I make mostly 1/48th USN jets, that's why..) But anyhow, it was very realistic.

How about a dark orange oil wash? Most pics of U-boats (that I've seen)show more of a "runny" rust than a crusty look -although the really neglected ones looked pretty raunchy. Oil takes a while to dry so you can wipe it off if you mess up or don't like the result. Thin it with Ronsonol lighter fluid and it should'nt damage the paint, but I'd shoot it with Future first to be sure.

-fish

Maybe everyone knows something that I don't but I like to use colored pencils. Specifically: Dark Brown, Dark Umber, Sienna Brown, and Black. I get good rust stains that way.

In today's armor forum is a lesson on how to make rust using steel wool aged in water to make the "rust" it's miffen from belgium. Yes, rust-all works well, and so does the pastel method, just make sure you get pastels that will grind up "powedery" some are oil based or stickey. Doc O' Brien's weathering powders work too, they are like pastels. You can get rust-all and doc o' brian's thru Micro-mark catalog. I have to restrain myself when "rusting" things I tend to over-do it and make a battleship look like a trawler!! Ah well......
good luck... G.L.

I have used pastels in the "past" (sorry). :-)

Go to an artist's supply and get a few different shades of brown and orange pastel crayons (5-6 colors in all).

I grind the pastel crayons into a powder with some 150 grit sandpaper, the dip a brush (dry) into the pastel dust. Apply vertically with the paint brush to simulate rust running down the sides of the hull.

The advantage to this system is that you can wipe off mistakes, and you can practice ALL DAY on the actual model until you get good!

The disadvantage to using this system is that you cannot clear over the pastel (it will dissappear), and you MUST cover the model in a glass (dustproof) display case.

I built a U-boat about 7-8 years ago and used the pastel weathering process and it's been in a glass case (made for the boat) since. No finger prints or dust on it yet.

--Jon

Humbrol usd to make a rust color as well.
real rust for rust? thats good....
In a helldiver i used tamiya red brown-with pactra weathering mix (drybrushed) and got something that looks like weathered rust. You can try that and see.

I have used paint with baking powder mixed in with some great success...

Someone even mentioned getting a few iron nails (not galvanized)- putting them in water w/ a small bit of vinegar and setting it in the sun....the slurry you get you can paint on with a brush. No better substitute for rust than rust....

there is a product floating around out there called ' rust-all ' it does a nice job of simulating rust on cars but i dont know if the effect would look right on a ship. but isnt rust rust?