Armor Weathering

Being a Scout myself I would have to say that Talal did a mighty fine job with his model.
Looking at the article it looks like he used the standard weathering technique of applying a wash to the model then dry brushing. Finally he went in and added the rust and grime stains. He may have even added the rusty color in the wash then went back and added more rust to specific areas.
If you are having trouble with your washes turning out to dark just thin the wash out more. Add less paint to the thinner. I find that artist oils work real well for weathering. Also make sure you have let your model dry for a few days before you start to weather it or the thinner will eat away the paint job.
Weathering takes practice to get just the way you like it so don't get discouraged.
Good luck,
Pat

Pat has pretty much covered the washes, etc.
But, you also might want to try going over your subject with a dusting of pastels.
I use them to give a dusty, grimey look. A lite coat of 50%Future -50% Dull coat will fix the pastels.
By pastels, I mean artist pastels. I got mine at WalMart. I just scrape them with my Exacto and apply them with a fluffy brush. If I screw up (most of the time!) I just wipe the powder away and start again.


John

My theory about weathering is that just when you think that another little touch will make it perfect, it's time to stop. Subtlety is key here, and most AFVs on the battlefield will certainly be dirty, but huge mounds of dust are not likely, since the wind blows in every dusty area I've been in, and the motion of the vehicle as well as the crew mounting, dismounting, and maintaining it will tend to knock off some of the dirt, sand, snow, etc. The suspension is the area where mud and turf, etc. will adhere, but not to the areas of contact between tracks and roadwheels, idlers, drive wheels, etc. The T-34 among others had a mud scraper on the tank body to remove large chunks of mud from the tracks as the vehicle moved along them.

i find a very convincing way to weather afv's is to follow the advice given by the others here but with a small twist- i use oil paints(white oils as a base then my enamel camo color added) this lets me achive a very suble fading/shading effect.the only caution is oils dry sloooowly,so only do one color at a time then put away for a week or so. this will bring out the fine casting or detailing of modern kits nicely. good luck

i forgot to mention this is a dry brush technique.use old or worn red sable brushes for the best results