Celluclay Question

Usually varnish should prevent this....so I am not sure what happened there. How wet was the Celluclay when it was applied? I suppose it also depends on the wood type...but I will leave this one for the experts since I have only done one base successfully.

Ive had that problem too. I usuallu use the plaques you get at the craft store. Ive tried everything I know how. I used Thompsons water seal, Ive stained it and then sealed it with at least 2 coats of clear gloss varnish. After using the varnsih though it only warps just a little, but Id still like to try and keep it prefectly flat. I did try this though:
Take wax paper and lay it on the wood. Then, lay on your Celuclay, sculpt it however you want. Allow it to dry, the transfer it to the wood and glue down with a good white glue, or spray addhessive. Now you can go back with small amounts of wet Cell and patch up anywhere you may need. Its a longer process , but at least I got my flat base :) still looking for an alternative selaer though.

The wax paper idea is pretty good! I'll have to try it.

1.What I've done in the past is use Minwax's Acrylic Gloss Polyurethane. It looks like Elmer's Glue going on, but dries hard, and seals well.
2. 1/4" plywood sounds a little thin. I've not had warpage problems with 1/2" or 3/4" stuff.
3. I am learning to stay away from the unfinished plaques in the stores. Pine and basswood are just too soft, and warp when I look at them wrong. :) I go to Home Depot or Lowe's and buy a couple of pieces of oak "shelving". These are boards that are planed and sort of pre-finished. I fasten some plastic window screen material to the base to give the Celluclay some tooth to grab onto.
4. Celluclay needs to be mixed as dry as possible. I use a little water (<1cup), white glue and a few drops of Liquitex acrylics (to add earth color) mixed well in a cool whip container, and then pile in the Celluclay. If it looks like there's not enough water to mix all that together, then you have the right ratio. A little water can be added as needed, but start off DRY.
5. The thinner the Celluclay is placed on the base, the better. If you want a thick base, glue down some styrofoam on your base and add the Celluclay over the top. This way, all that moisture doesn't come into contact with the wood.
a. If you do need to build up Celluclay without the styrofoam, do it in increments. Let the bottom THIN layer dry, then start adding a little more until you get it where you want it.
6. As a last resort, change base material. I've seen some good stuff mounted on ceramic tile flooring material.
Gip Winecoff

Good technique you have Styrene. I agree too with the plaques. I just like them because theyve been "routered?" all the way around. They still need sanding though. I'll have to try some of that Minwax acryl. Sounds like its good and think to coat well. Oh, and I will have to try the Cool Whip Bowl, gimme an excuse to finish off that blackberry pie I baked :)

Another trick we've learned is to start entering model shows and winning trophies. Take the plaque off the wood trophy base (which is already routed), and use it for your display base. The wood is hard, and already finished. Just apply a thin layer of Celluclay, and you're done!
Gip Winecoff

LOL wow, a good demise for a well earned trophy.

Aw, Gip if I had to use trophy bases that I won most of my models would have no bases I didn't have a warpage problem with celluclay just the usuall shrinkage and once on a diorama I pressed dirt into the wet celluclay (nice effect) when it dried mold had formed in and on the dirt.(monster modelers is this for you?) I got it off by brushing on white vinigar and "nukeing" in the microwave for 30 seconds. Wanna see celluclay really shrink? Nuke it.. I got the vinigar trick from hanging deer for a week, just wipe on vinigar and wipe of the mold. Don't grow back either
G.L.