What kind of glue????

It depends on what part of the model I'm working on. I use Tenex 7 for any and all applications that has a seam and white glue for all the clear parts and super glue for the rest.

Ken

QUOTE: Originally posted by styrene The only disadvantage that I see is that you don't get a choice between thin and gel-style glues.

That's changed Gip!
I went to Rite Aid and bought a tube just a while ago and it is the new Instant Krazy Glue extra strength gel. The tube was $3.49 for .14 oz. which is, as you mentioned, not much glue for the price. Oh well, at least I didn't have to drive 10 miles to the hobby shop.

Mike

I use Testors and/or Tamiya Extra thin Cement for plastic and CA type glues for resin and PE. For clear parts I usually use white glue. (Helps to prevent crazing or fogging due to finger problems when using Plastic or CA glues

I have heard that Plastruct glue was a specific glue used for the plastruct range of plastic shapes as normal plastic cements are not very good in joining this material.

The only glues I use are Testors Non-Toxic cement(the tube variety) and white glue.
No fumes, no fuss, just great looking models!

Thanks Gip.

I need some CA glue for general assembly and was curious as to what's my best bet. I am building the Revell 1/48 scale F-15E and am gluing the seats together as well as all of the cockpit parts and thought the CA would be the way to go to assemble these parts.
All I have right now is some Testors liquid cement which is a pain to try and assemble small cockpit parts with.

Mike

Mike,
I really don't think there should be much difference between the "cheap" stuff and the regular. They all contain varying ratios of methyl or ethyl cyanoacrylate. Same ingredients used throughout the manufacturing community. I think the price differentiation comes (at least in part) to the amount of glue you buy. The Crazy Glues and Super Glues come in blister packs and are only about an ounce or less--certainly not much more than that. The only disadvantage that I see is that you don't get a choice between thin and gel-style glues.
Gip Winecoff

Do you guys see any difference in the cheap CA glues like SuperGlue sold at drug stores and known brands like Zap-A-Gap?
I am out of CA glue at the moment and wondered if the stuff the drug store sells is just as good or not. I have only used Zap-A-Gap in the past so I figured I would ask those of you more knowledgable than I.

Thanks

Mike

I use Tenax for almost all plastic to plastic bonds. It holds quickly and strongly. It is great stuff. I like it much better than plastruct, but that is an O.K. product too.

Superglue from the local CVS or RiteAid for all small seams and small parts. I use the Testors liq cement for long, straight seams for durability, with drops of CA in between. White glue or really tiny drops of CA for clear parts. If you're glueing (gluing?) on a canopy with CA, it's helpful to have some source of air blowing by on the inside to avoid the frosting effect. ie, if the cockpit is accessible from the wheel well or something, I'll point a fan at it until I'm sure the CA is dry.

CA glue for just about everything.

A little white glue thrown in for making tarps and other paraphenalia.

Tamiya liquid cement for fairly quick sets, Testors liquid cement for slower sets, Cyanoacrylate (varioius manufacturers) for PE and resin, Conap 2-part epoxy for other stuff (like nose weights), Elmer's white glue for clear parts and minor seam filling.
Gip Winecoff

in general hobby liquid glue (revell, humbrol, modelfix (greek brand), and CA for hard to deal with points. Thats for plastic to plastic only not clear.

I just use good ol' "Tamiya Cement," which is the liquid type in the glass bottle with the little brush. For PE and resin I use the regular and gel type superglues from Cemedine.

Tenex 7R, Medium Super-Glue & accelerator, 5 minute epoxy, testors tube glue (it comes in handy sometimes), testors clear parts cement