Camouflage!!??

What airbrush are you using and what paint brand?

-Jesse

both the paints and the air brush are for beginrers, acrilycs for the most part.

 

What I mostly see people use is masking tape by cutting them into the shape u want.

Another method I was taught and was told is one of the best method is using "masking liquid" where you apply the liquid on the surface and along the edge, the liquid will then solidify into "rubber," Do your spraying and then peel off the rubber.

I've never tried this before nor have I done any aircraft camouflage, so I guess someone with experiece to advise you before you do anything.

Freehand camouflage with a very fine line at the demarcation between colors is the single hardest thing to do with an airbrush.  It isn't easy, the ability doesn't come overnight, but with practice it can be done.

1.  Thin paint, low pressure, very close to the surface (as in less than 1/2")

2.  Angle the airbrush about 45 degrees so that overspray goes into the color that you are painting.

3.  If you get too much overspray load the other color and go back and touch things up in the same manner.

You can prevent the overspray using a technique of spray towards the color you are applying. Spray inward, not outwards...always keep the airbrush pointed towards the center of the color area you are applying.

Paper templates, silly putty, masking tape are all good masking media. 

Silverbean wrote:

both the paints and the air brush are for beginrers, acrilycs for the most part.

If it's something like these  

you are basically dealing with a spray can and cannot get a smooth edge. You will need to mask to get any multi color scheme.

The Paasche H is really the most inexpensive beginner brush you can get. It was my first and I was able to get very tight patterns even on 1/72 aircraft.

HawkeyeHobbies wrote:

You can prevent the overspray using a technique of spray towards the color you are applying. Spray inward, not outwards...always keep the airbrush pointed towards the center of the color area you are applying.

Good advice Gerald.

Ah, Silver Bean, another cheap masking agent you can consider, blutack.

 This is my air brush and I know it is a cheap one but I figured that I would try out first with this to learn and then get the better one, thanks again for your advises guys, now I think I'm gonna try the silly putty, any word on what brand or a specific technique? Thanks again!!

 

 

 

That looks like a Badger 350 like the one I have been using forever (20+ years now). All of the advice above will get you the results you want in time. Thinning, paints, pressure, practice, masking, etc.

The following aircraft kits were all airbrushed freehand with the same type of airbrush.

Keep at it... you will get better!

WOW stikpusher, it looks really nice and you are reight, practice and more practice. Do i need to thin the paints even more if I'm gonna use low pressure? Right now I'm using 1:1 ratio for the acrilycs and the airbrush medium. By the way, any home made recepi for airbrush medium? thanks so much again!!

The Harrier and Corsair II were done with acrylics. I used Gunze paints with their thinner on the AV-8.  Modlel Master Acrylics (not the newer Acryl) and Aeromaster Warbird Acrylics (both lines now discontinued)on the A-7. I tend to thin all acrylics to a thinner consisitency than enamels. A good rule of thumb is the consistency/opacity of milk. Invest in a compressor or other long term air source, such as a large CO2 bottle. For "homemade" medium check out auto windshield washer fluid and ethyl rubbing alcohol. Check how they react with your chosen brands of paint first, before putting them thru your airbrush. Some paints react adversely and gum up.

Silverbean wrote:

This is my air brush and I know it is a cheap one but I figured that I would try out first with this to learn and then get the better one, thanks again for your advises guys, now I think I'm gonna try the silly putty, any word on what brand or a specific technique? Thanks again!!

Note the very first airbrush in my arsenal...I use it a lot and it works just fine...it is how I learned and that old Binks has been used for hundreds of models. Learn how to use the tool, the tool is in part only as good at the hand that wields it.