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Spray booth problem

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  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Canadian Prairies
Posted by caSSius on Tuesday, October 14, 2008 1:08 PM

I concur with Gerald.  Having worked as a consulting Mechanical Engineer, it's my experience that the lack of consideration for relief/fresh air to make-up the air you are exhausting, is the most often encountered problem with retrofit ventilation equipment. There is only so much static pressure that a fan can overcome (and residential-grade fans are not designed to overcome very much).

The big offenders for increasing your static pressure are

  • excessive length of duct from fan to outlet
  • fittings (90 degree elbows are the worst, use two 45 degree elbows if you can)
  • no free-flowing fresh air source to provide make-up air

Also, dryer hose with it's accordian walls is not a good choice (it's static pressure per foot is much, much higher than rigid duct)...use rigid duct if you can.

Your choice of fan (in excess of 400cfm) is greater than 4-times the average household bathroom fan...so likely it's starved of air and thereby not running at it's advertised flow rate. Try cracking a window or two next time you use it and see if it works better.

With an oversized fan, it is not uncommon in a well sealed house with all windows closed, to create a backdraft down your chimney/flue and blow out your furnace and/or water heater's pilot light...so no relief air can create more than an odor problem!

Hope that helps,

Cheers

Brad

"Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far one can go."

- T.S. Eliot

 

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Neenah, WI
Posted by HawkeyeHobbies on Tuesday, October 14, 2008 9:43 AM

To be effective you need to have it vented outside, you also have to have a source of relief air coming in. If the exhaust fan has to push the air over a great distance and there is no fresh air being injected into the room...say you have closed door the fan will not move the published CFM.

Just like with an engine...make the air flow as easy and least restrictive as possible to get the best performance. Your system is more than adequate...I'm using a 200 CFM and it works fine for me, though being a man...MORE POWER is always preferred.Wink [;)]

If your booth has filters...clean or replace them...that too will contribute to offending the wife's sensitive nose...again a dirty filter will reduce the fans ability to move the vapors outside. 

Gerald "Hawkeye" Voigt

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/

 

 

"Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench."

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Amherst, MA
Spray booth problem
Posted by M1 A1 A2 Tanker on Tuesday, October 14, 2008 1:36 AM

Hi

    Guys

           I need some advice. About two years ago I built this spray booth

/forums/825651/ShowPost.aspx. Fan is 465 CFM.

And while I have rarely used it since then, a problem has a risen in that it is now to big for my new work bench (23" W X 24" H X 24" deep the booth not the bench). I'm thinking of a couple of options.

A.) Cut the Depth down as that is not supposed to figure into the CFM in a cross draft booth.

B.) Buy a commercially available booth. (problem is it seems to me that there fans are usually under powered).

C.) Leave like it is but find another place in the work shop. (problem here is that it would a longer length of ducting where as on my work bench is right against a window.)

Also, the times I have used it it does not seem to be drawing that much air despite the 465 CFM rating. (When I sprayed Tamiya Spray piant I still bothered my wife even though fan was in operation.) I never did add the plentuim chamber might this help?

Thanks in advance.....

Scott

 

 

 

“Computers are like Old Testament gods; lots of rules and no mercy.”  ~ Joseph Campbell

 

 

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