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HELP with water based acrylics please

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  • Member since
    November 2005
HELP with water based acrylics please
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, November 22, 2003 6:22 AM
Help im really needing help with water based paints (namely gunze sangyo and tamiya). After being out of modeling for a lot years (since i was a teen), I've been trying to get back into modeling the last couple of years but i get constantly frustrated with the new water based paints (when i was a kid there was basically only oils around).
The problem im having is when im giving a second or later based coat (by brush no airbrush yet Sad [:(] but its also aplicable to finer non-airbrushable area like the cockpit) it often strips the earlier coats of paint. I have tried washing/ not washing the model first, under coating, and thats the joys on plastics, I was given some lord of the rings wargame figures and I've tried using the paints on them - both bare or with a flat white oil based uindercoat) and on these the paint just goes gluggy and seperates from its suspension fluid

Any help would be appriciated

Konigwolf
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, November 22, 2003 6:53 AM
hey wolf, I know exactly what you mean. I only use acrylics as well. Ive tried and tried to brush on Tamiya paints. Ive tried thinning them as well. Nothing see,s to work. Tamiyas are awesome in the airbrush. But I had to find something else to use for brushing on. The Model Master acrylics work just perfect for that. Sorry I couldnt be of more help.
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: NE Georgia
Posted by Keyworth on Saturday, November 22, 2003 6:56 AM
Tamiya does seem to be problematic in that area. Banged Head [banghead]Banged Head [banghead]Censored [censored]Censored [censored]Banged Head [banghead]Banged Head [banghead]I use MM for handbrushing as a result. No problems thus far. Bow [bow]Bow [bow]Bow [bow]
"There's no problem that can't be solved with a suitable application of high explosives"
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Maine,USA
Posted by dubix88 on Saturday, November 22, 2003 3:55 PM
HEY,
I use Model Master and Testors, whichever i can find. I have not had any problems with either of them.

Randy
THATS MY VOTE "If a woman has to choose between catching a fly ball and saving infant's life, she will choose to save the infant's life without even considering if there is a man on base." -Dave Barry In the words of the great Larry the Cable Guy, "GIT-R-DONE!!!"
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Panama City, Florida, Hurricane Alley
Posted by berny13 on Saturday, November 22, 2003 5:08 PM
Put a drop or two of dish washing liquid in the paint. Stir up, don't shake, and apply without thinning the paint. Let it fully cure before applying a second coat. Cool temperature and high humidity also effect the cure time. It is best to allow to cure in a warm dry room.

Berny

 Phormer Phantom Phixer

On the bench

TF-102A Delta Dagger, 32nd FIS, 54-1370, 1/48 scale. Monogram Pro Modeler with C&H conversion.  

Revell F-4E Phantom II 33rd TFW, 58th TFS, 69-260, 1/32 scale. 

Tamiya F-4D Phantom II, 13th TFS, 66-8711, 1/32 scale.  F-4 Phantom Group Build. 

 

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: USA, GA
Posted by erush on Saturday, November 22, 2003 10:56 PM
Konigwolf I would also recommend Vellejo acrylics for brush painting. They are the best I've ever used with a brush! No contest.

Eric
Hi, I'm Eric and I'm a Modelholic too. I think I have PE poisioning.     "Friendly fire...isn't"
  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: South Australia
Posted by South Aussie on Sunday, November 23, 2003 12:37 AM
Konigwolf;

I have also found Tamyia Acrylics very hard to brush on but have found out( over many years of Banged Head [banghead]) that if you apply them in a series of thin coats and wait at least 48 to 72 hoursZzz [zzz] between coats that you can get a reasonable finish. I have not had much to do with gunze sangyo acrylis so I won't make any comments on them.

QUOTE: Originally posted by erush

Konigwolf I would also recommend Vellejo acrylics for brush painting. They are the best I've ever used with a brush! No contest.

Eric

Sign - Ditto [#ditto] I have been experimenting with Vellejo acrylics over the last couple of months and now have decided to use them only when hand brushing with acrylics.
Wayne I enjoy getting older, especially when I consider the alternative.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Waukesha, WI
Posted by David Voss on Sunday, November 23, 2003 2:40 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Konigwolf
I have tried washing/ not washing the model first, under coating, and thats the joys on plastics, I was given some lord of the rings wargame figures and I've tried using the paints on them - both bare or with a flat white oil based uindercoat) and on these the paint just goes gluggy and seperates from its suspension fluid


I'm no expert, but that doesn't sound good. Blush [:I]

For figures all I've used to this point are the Citadel paints (although I would like to try Vallejo paints). A couple of weeks ago, I primed some figures by hand using both Citadel's Smelly Primer and Skull White. Because the paint I was using was old and went bad, I switched to Tamiya for a couple of figures. While it appears to have went on okay, I haven't gotten around to painting the figures I basecoated with Tamiya. While it is possible to do the basecoat by hand, I would recommend using the Citadel Undercoat (spray can) for undercoating the figures. It not only saves time, but also goes on very well.

For painting the Lord of the Rings figures, you might be interested in the following link if you haven't already visited.
http://us.games-workshop.com/games/lotr/sbg/hobby/painting/painting.htm

Best of luck with the new figures. Smile [:)]
David Voss Senior Web Developer Kalmbach Publishing Co. Join me on the FSM Map
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, November 24, 2003 4:32 AM
Thanks for the help, the drop or two of dishwashing detergent was right on the mark, thanks heaps Smile [:)]
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