A problem with my washes

jcfay wrote:

You might also want to consider trying out an acrylic wash as well.  I use one most often and like it because it is so harmless to anything underneath it, and it can be easily wiped off and reapplied over and over again.  I usually use an acrylic artist paint (lamp black, etc.) in water with a drop or two of dishwashing soap to break the surface tension.  Never have any problems with it destroying anything underneath.

If you have a Hobby Lobby nearby, hit them on occasion.  They are always having sales, and you can usually get a pretty good discount on artist oils or artist acrylics (think I picked mine up at 30% off a while back).  I had the same problem with my washes coming off of everything as well.  I switched to using Q-Tips and washing smaller areas at a time.  It takes a bit longer, but the wash stays where I need it and gives me a little more control.

 I haven't tried using craft acrylics for washes.  Has anyone given those a go to see if they work?  They're super cheap, but I'm not sure they can be thinned enough.  I picked some up after reading Doog's Hetzer article in December's FSM (beautiful model), and they work great for brush painting.

So I remembered I had acrylic paint!

I tried to make it into a wash, but the particles were to large, and the color didnt stay.  So I used it without it thinned with the water, and while it worked, it stained it to much and didnt take enough of the color out.

Wilbur Wright wrote:

I would be interested to know if anyone makes an acrylic flat clear, that would be comparable to what the Testors flat  laquer does.

Generally I use Future with a bit of Tamiya flat base mixed in, and this provides a lovely and really easy to use acrylic flat finish.  I usually mix it 8 - 10:1 Future:Tamiya flat base, and it works great and is super easy to clean up and durable too.

Note: a tube of oil paint from an art store for $6 bucks will last for years and at least a couple of dozen or more models. Very little actual pigment is used. Just a dab in a little cup of mineral spirits then I hit a piece of paper towel with the brush then the model. One section at a time.

Takes about three days for most models. Patience.

Q-tips for occasional screwups.

I've been using oils (ivory black Grumbachers) thinned in oderless mineral spirits for years, over MM enamels sealed with Testors flat laquer. I do not wipe.

I think just once in probably 50 models did it get through it and take some paint off, probably because I had yet to master the technique at that time. (Once applied you have limited working time and cannot double back until dry)

I would be interested to know if anyone makes an acrylic flat clear, that would be comparable to what the Testors flat  laquer does.

The wash I have described above results in a dead flat finish, which is what I want. I just did Trumpeter's 1/35th LCM last night, and once again am very pleased with the results. 

Using enamels over lacquer may not work. Some lacquers, especially modern ones, are susceptible to mineral spirits, and/or do not provide a sufficient barrier to that solvent to protect the paint underneath.

If you must use enamels as a wash, use an acrylic clear coat as a barrier coat between the paint and the wash. The same applies to use of oil paints.

Rememeber: washes should be applied to a different paint system. Enamel/oil over acrylic and vice versa.