home made refridgerator propane tank compressor help

I wouldn't recommend drilling any holes in an air tank as the potential for bursting is increased if there are any defects from the hole you made.
Actually it is best to have 5 holes in a tank: Inlet, outlet, tank pressure gauge, draincock, and safety pop-off valve.
I don't know if that idea will work anyhow as the T-fitting cannot be taking air in and putting air out at the same time from the same hole can it?
Why not buy a small air tank made for 4x4 trucks and use that?
That is what I did with the compressor I made from a 1/2 hp Jun-Air silent compressor.
This is the 5-gallon one I used for my setup:



You can buy a 3 gallon one for about $40.

Mike

hey mike thanks for the reply, i was thinking that if the air is getting pumped into any hole the air pressure would stabilze very quickly and so that you wouldn't need a second hole for an air input. And yes, your right that you would need more holes for additional meters and guages, i was trying going to add those with t connectors. Another reason for using these t connectors instead of that air tank you suggested is because i was thinking of using a portable propane tank as storage (the ones for torches) i want to use this because i only do very minimal work (1 hour or less) per week on my models and i was thinking of using a 30-50 psi pressure switch and work with low pressure. And since the propane tank is so small it can fill up really quickly and i was not going to use a relief valve because i would be release the pressure off every session i take. here is a rough sketch of what i was thinking:

I am guessing that it would work but I don't know how well it would cycle in comparison to having an inlet and an outlet for air.
I would give Coast Airbrush a call and ask Dave about your setup.
He could tell you better than I.

Mike

that was what i was wondering about... since it's compressed air and in theory compressed air does stablize very quickly... thanks for you help.