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Unhappy with my freehand airbrushing results

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  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Chicago, USA
Unhappy with my freehand airbrushing results
Posted by MonsterZero on Thursday, November 13, 2008 11:08 PM

When airbrushing my kits I think the camo patterns have edges that are too soft and with too much overspray for the scale. They would look right on a full size vehicle or aicraft but for a small model there's too much overspray.

I'm wondering what technique I can use, for 1/35 armor and 1/48 aircraft, that will give me camo patterns that have sharper demarcation edges but still look airbrushed. I don't want to just cut out pieces of masking tape and stick them on the model-this results in razor sharp edges. I want the edges to be a bit fuzzy.

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Commonwealth of Virginia
Posted by USArmyFAO on Friday, November 14, 2008 1:46 AM
Like you, I've had the same problems...  With aircraft I usually cut out masks and stick them to the model with blue tack or silly putty so that they are raised off the plastic...  With armor, I spray freehand but then do a highly diluted over-spary with some variation of the base color which tends to build a scale effect and assist in weathering nicely.  But there are those who are way more knowledgeable than I on the subject so hopefully they answer up as well.  Someday, though I hope my skills are such that I can build an Italian WWII Macchi C.205 with those tight random patterns all over the surface...  Hope my suggestions help.

Cheers, Matt

"If we increase the size of the penguin until it is the same height as the man and then compare the relative brain size, we now find that the penguin's brain is still smaller. But, and this is the point, it is larger than it *was*."

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by ajlafleche on Friday, November 14, 2008 7:58 AM

First, practice, practice, practice.

Next, get the tip of the brush right down to the surface, a quarter inch should do it.

Then, angle the brush into the color rather than straight up and down, to draw the outline.

Remember, if the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

  • Member since
    August 2003
Posted by bearcat-1 on Friday, November 14, 2008 11:07 AM
Yes, practice is the key.  You will have to make mistakes to learn.  Ask me how I know.  No other way around it.  But learn you will.  Also know that a quality airbrush, compressor and paint make all the difference in the world.  Though you don't have to go nuts with the most expensive Iwata that you can find out there.  I have a Badger 200 and 150 that I use for all my work.  Mainly use the 200 for most everything but for close in work such as feathered camo lines the 150 works wonders.  Also a compressor that you can adjust airflow is a big plus also.  Stay with it and good luck.
  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Neenah, WI
Posted by HawkeyeHobbies on Friday, November 14, 2008 1:15 PM
Get some cheap acrylic paints...craft type and start painting on paper...practice makes perminent. Learn to draw and color with your airbrush on paper and then three dimensional objects will be easier.

Gerald "Hawkeye" Voigt

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/

 

 

"Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench."

  • Member since
    October 2008
Posted by Bivouac on Friday, November 14, 2008 10:36 PM

Bearcat 1 gave you an excellent response. In my opinion, your air source is just as, if not more so, important than your airbrush. You must be able to regulate  and dial your pressure up or down as needed. This is less important with a dual-action airbrush, but a real MUST for a single action unit. I use a passche H and a Silent Air 30 compressor. A great combo in my opinion.

MJB 

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