Ok, so take this any way you want..
it is not a higly controlled test, just something I needed to do for myself. If it helps others, great, if you have different experiences thats good too :)
Paints tested:
MM Acrylic, Tamiya, Gunze Aqueous and Mr. Color.
AB: Paasch H
paints applied to:
.04 evergreen sheet styrene, a full sheet.
The Styrene sheet was:
Primed one-half width, full lenght with Tamiya Primer
Primed the other Half width, full lenght with approx 50% thinned Mr. Surfacer 1200, the laquer thinner from H-Depot.
Primer Surfaces were also wet sanded with 1,000 and 2,000 grit Abralon Pads and cleaned well
overlapping both sections but leaving bare primed area on the edges, Alclad II Dark Aluminum was applied.
AB was operated at approx 20 psi, if a paint seemed thin it was reduced. readings are static at guage
my empirical opinion results:
MM thinned with 70% alcohol. "ok" a little thin. somewhat splattery. reduced air pressure
MM thinned with Windshield Washer Fluid. : Awful. puddled, textured. reduced Air pressure a LOT, it got a little better. not acceptable.
MM thinned with 70% alcohol and several large drops of Winsor Newton Retarder: Best of the MM tests. surface still textured compared to other paints. Used less Alcohol, air pressure back to 16-20. (at guage, static)
Gunze Aqueos, 70% alcohol, WN Retarder. quite nice, even coverage.
Tamiya 70% alcohol, WN Retarder. quite nice, even coverage surface just slighty more dry looking than Gunze. the Tamiay may have dried more on the way to the surface, but all of the spraying was approx 1-1/2 to 2" away.
Mr. Color, thinned approx 50% with Mr Leveling thinner. VERY NICE. best overall.
None of the Paints had any bad reaction to the Alclad. I guess thats expected.
the MM was the only paint with settled clumpy pigments that must be stirred very very well, though I recall a Gunze that had some settled pigments but not much at all.
BTW, Something else I have noticed in the Past, is that Liquitex slo-dri, and Tamiya paint, well it does not seem to mix 100%, there seems to always be a "swirl" of white in the Paint after adding a drop or two. The WN retarder is noticably different in Viscosity and more neutral in color.
I guess I should also explain that later I intend to see how "oil filters" behave on the these paints, how they react to that flitz stuff, and how well Future settles on the paints.
just thought I would share, I know we all get "different mileage" form these kind of things. Lots of variables involved!!!
Best Regards,
....B